The volcano Popocatépetl was active, unleashing a huge cloud of smoke and ash, so the view of that Biosphere was not clear. I kept my distance. In the 16th century, the Franciscans built massive fortified monasteries below the volcanoes, and now 14 are recognized as a World Heritage Site. This one, named San Miguel Arcángel, is in the center of the small city of Huejotzingo, about 45 minutes from Puebla. This area is famous for carnival festivals, celebrating various conflicts and stories from before the Spanish arrived through the French invasion in the 18th century.

One use of the monasteries was for defense, and some played important roles in battles. This large monastery is an oasis behind high thick crenelated walls, enclosing an open plaza with beautiful old trees and behind more walls, a couple of lovely cloisters with fruit trees (above). There are renovations underway, due to seismic activity, but much can still be seen inside on a 75 peso ($4.50) tour. Just off the kitchen, there is a macabre holy relic display of skeletal, partly mummified remains in glass cases. Sundays the museum closes to accommodate services.