Author: bigdiff

National Parks to Visit in June

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I recommend Badlands, Great Smoky, Teddy Roosevelt, Yellowstone and Wind Cave in June. These popular parks are big enough to accommodate some crowds, are more fun in summer, and are even busier in July and August.

The Badlands are at their mildest in June, with wildlife about and even some greenery. Spend some time soaking in the scenery from a campground, time your hikes for the sun angles and weather, and listen to a ranger talk at an amphitheater. You won’t have the place to yourself, but do you really want to be in the Badlands by yourself?

Great Smoky in June is good for seeing bears, fireflies, and for swimming holes or rafting, so no wonder it’s so popular. Plan ahead and spend some time camping here, so you can visit the most popular spots on weekday mornings. Take your time hiking and ask folks what they’ve seen.

Teddy Roosevelt is another fun park that’s great in June. I enjoyed driving to all three park units, hiking and enjoying wildlife and scenic viewpoints. But if I go again, I’m going to stay longer. The folks at the campgrounds were very friendly and nice.

Yellowstone is the best park in the contiguous US and is big with lots to see and do. So you need to go when there’s good weather and activities are in full swing. Book campgrounds and activities well in advance, give yourself time for everything on your list, and go in June before it gets even busier in July and August. The grand old park can handle the crowds, but planning ahead is the key.

Wind Cave is crowded in summer, so common advice says to visit in May or September to avoid crowds and heat. But it’s a cave, so heat is not an issue. And the cave tours are all in guided groups, which are similar in size most of the year. So my advice is to visit when you’re visiting other parks above in the region. And you should absolutely book your tickets in advance. Bison can be seen outside the park entrance in June and other months.

June is a beautiful month, so take advantage of the fine weather, go camping and enjoy some of the best national parks in the country.

Colonial Mexico

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In February 1519, Hernán Cortés landed in Cozumel with 500 soldiers, founded the port city of Veracruz (below) and then arrived at the Aztec capital by year end. Allied with anti-Aztec rivals, and the populace stricken with smallpox, Cortez conquered Tenochtitlán in 1521. The earliest Spanish colonial world heritage site is now called Mexico City, then capital of New Spain, centered on the National Palace, Zócalo (plaza) and Metropolitan Cathedral all built on top of the Aztec ruins.

Close behind the conquistadors, missionaries began building thick-walled monasteries nearby on the volcanic slopes of Popocatepetl: the Franciscans in 1524, the Dominicans in 1526, and the Augustinians in 1533. Across New Spain, churches were built on top of native religious sites.

And native cities, some thousands of years old, were ‘founded’—reorganized—under Spanish rule. Aztec trading hubs and routes throughout Mexico became Spanish. The trading hub of Oaxaca, valued for high desert salt, was re-founded 1529. Puebla, between the capital, the monasteries, the port and Oaxaca, was founded in 1531. Another gulf port city, Campeche, was founded in 1540, and later Tlacotalpan, a river port city was founded in 1550. Morelia, 1541, became an administrative center for commerce, including farming and ranching to the west. Each of these cities has UN-protected historic centers with colonial architecture arranged in grids. In 1555, an aqueduct was built north of the Capital, applying Roman technology to the ‘new’ world.

As silver mines were built in the north, wealth began being extracted at scale. Querétaro in 1531, San Miguel de Allende in 1542, Zacatecas in 1546 and Guanajuato in 1554 all reflect the opulence of silver dug by enslaved native workers. Besides admiring the marvelous architecture and world class art museums, I recommend touring a silver mine. Silver flowed for centuries, especially from around 1600, along El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro, the old trading trading route to El Paso.

In 1565, Spanish galleon trade opened across the Pacific between Manila and Acupulco, and the traders introduced improvements to native methods to distill blue agave. Taking advantage of a law change in 1595, liquor production boomed in Tequila.

The Franciscans were still building monasteries over a century later, and in the 1750s, a newly arrived Father Junípero Serra oversaw the construction of several beautiful missions in the remote Serra Gorda regions, which are well preserved.

The Spanish colonial rule over New Spain lasted 300 years, from the conquest of Tenochtitlán to the end of the War of Independence. Visiting the world heritage sites that preserve this history in Mexico is a fascinating and rewarding journey. Especially for Americans considering Europe, this a great way to tour great Spanish colonial cathedrals and historic cities without burning carbon to fly over the Atlantic.

Oaxaca & Monte Albán

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Both the historic center of Oaxaca with its magnificent Spanish cathedral and the ancient mountain top temple complex of Monte Albán are recognized in this UNESCO world heritage site. I enjoyed a delicious meal—including the tres insectos tostada below—in the city center shortly after arriving, walked the cobblestone streets and gawked at the gold covered interior of the church. This is a beautiful and culturally rich city to explore. After charging overnight at my hotel, the next day I drove up the mountain and explored the grand temple complex, climbing up the steep stairs at each end to get 360° views of the city and valley.

The Zapotecs built Monte Albán around 500 BC, carving out the grand plaza above off the lone mountain on the valley floor. Before moving up here from the gulf coast, they invented an early form of glyphic script or writing. Around that time, their society transformed from egalitarian to hierarchical. Given that the top of their society were priests with special powers to interpret the cosmos and calendars, I imagine that some men controlled the power of literacy, using it to rule. When the Zapotec came here they called themselves the cloud people and conquered the neighboring villages. Their elaborate decorative carvings tell the stories of those conquests. This was the center of their empire for well over 1000 years, and the planned city was used for burials and ceremonies for centuries afterwards.

Perhaps because literacy may have a guarded secret of the elite, Zapotec script has not been deciphered. But the meaningful figures carved into the pyramids here belie the label ‘pre-historic’ often used against Native Americans. From 200 to 500 CE, the Zapotecs were trading mica for obsidian with Teotihuacan and maintained quarters there. They also traded with the Mayans, and their skills and script were used and adapted by the Aztecs. So these ancient cultures practiced diplomacy as well as war and carried on extensive trade relations for centuries. Simply because colonizers erased much of their culture does not mean that the natives in the Americas were all illiterate or uncivilized; the scale and sophistication of this complex stands in testimony of their centuries of accomplishments.

Caves of Mitla & Yagul

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This blurry gray photo I took of a raggedy corn husk in the bottom of a dark cave is why I came to the Prehistoric Caves of Yagul and Mitla in the Central Valley of Oaxaca UNESCO world heritage site. It is fossilized and may be 10,000 years old. A similar one was found in a nearby cave and dated back that far, with other evidence proving that this is the oldest known agricultural settlement in the Americas. Many people visit Oaxaca’s colorful markets, delicious restaurants, gorgeous cathedral, and take much better photos, but I think they’re missing an important site here, an easy day tour southeast of Oaxaca.

Here in these caves, humans gathered, drew images on the walls, told stories about hunting, animals and mystical beliefs understood only from ancient oral traditions. They built terraces to grow corn and other crops nearby. They learned many secrets of nature and passed them on, so we can enjoy many of the foods cultivated in the Americas first, before going global, including avocados, many beans, corn, chilies, chocolate, peanuts and vanilla. We all owe a debt to these ancient people, and yet we still know little about them.

My guides know the area well and told many stories of the caves, showed me exceptional pictographs and described the various species that still live here. We heard bats, saw strange black minerals that appear wet but are dry, and we talked about the most basic and universal human feelings to try to interpret the ancient images so long preserved here. Like many native religions in the US, the caves are believed to contain the secrets of the first humans and passages to the underworld. Mitla means underworld in the local language, and the Spanish intentionally built churches on sacred sites here, as they imposed their foreign religion.

Some folks today bizarrely believe that since several painted figures carry an odd shaped device that they must have been ‘downloading data from aliens’. At the excellent anthropology museum in Xalapa, I saw several identically shaped devices identified as hachas or ceremonial axes that represent maize and are at least 3000 years old, which would seem to be a more likely explanation. I think we need to make a new effort to understand our human origins, our relationship with nature, and our oldest beliefs in order to find more respectful, more insightful and more meaningful ways to live.

Tehuacán-Cuicatlán Valley

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[Bonus Wednesday post as I try to catch up to my current travels!]

This high mountain area north of Oaxaca Mexico is the most biodiverse arid region in North America. I drove up the steep hairpin turns through thick fog, seeing how the mountains block rainfall up here. Mexico’s first biologist, Helia Bravo Hollis explored the area for years, documenting many new species, especially cacti. Thanks to her efforts, the rare biodiversity was recognized and protected, with a park in her name now the best place to tour the cactus landscape.

The diverse density of plants is far greater than Saguaro, Organ Pipe or Pinacate. There are also ancient marine fossils, rare snakes, insects and bats. We saw signs of a fox, and there are other mammals that live in the dry isolated valley. Many medicinal plants have been studied here too.

But the UNESCO site is also important for the Pre-Colombian archaeological sites. The oldest irrigation systems in North America have been found here. And besides growing crops like maize, drying pools were built to gather salt for trading. Salt was a high value trading good for centuries, connecting this harsh region with distant population centers.

Campeche

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The pirates have surrounded the old port town on the Gulf of Mexico, although some of the walls and forts still stand. Hardly anyone lives or works in the pastel buildings of the historic quarter, making the heart of Campeche a ghost town. By pirates, of course, I mean corporate property owners and developers. Once upon a time, the walls were manned to spot approaching corsairs, but now you can’t even see the water from them.

I charged my vehicle at an upscale mall that’s between the Sea Gate and the gulf. There are also two big roads, a light rail station, and at least one big fancy hotel now cutting off the UNESCO world heritage site from the port it was designed to protect. Count me among the disappointed visitors who hoped to wander atmospheric alleys, buy nautical trinkets and have a mug of grog at a salty tavern, only to find a bustling small modern city using the colorful colonial center primarily for parking.

And yet, a short drive southwest of town, another part of the city defenses remains. Fort San Miguel remains intact on a hill with ramparts overlooking the water, and it has a fine small museum dedicated to the Mayan culture that thrived on the Yucatán peninsula many centuries before colonizers fought over stolen gold. At least there I spied children excited to cross the drawbridge, see the cannon and admire beautiful jade masks.

Driving to the Yucatán

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After driving down Baja and to Mexico City in the last two years, this time I drove from California to the Yucatán Peninsula in southeastern Mexico. Highlights included seeing flamingos in Celestún above and jumping into Ik Kil cenote below, plus visiting many world heritage sites along the way. Look for my individual site reports and coming summaries, Pyramids of Mexico and Colonial Mexico.

Recent headlines and photos of several burning vehicles have inflamed fears of travel to Mexico. Many Americans have a bad attitude about Mexico, wrongly believing it is too dangerous to drive around, imagining bandaleros and corrupt police demanding bribes around every corner. Some Americans apparently enjoy horror stories about Mexico, while ignoring gun violence in the US. I have now driven to almost every state in Mexico without encountering any crime. I spoke with other foreigners who have been visiting Mexico annually for decades, and they also did not experience crime. This trip, I went through a couple of checkpoints and had my car searched once, exactly the same as in Texas.

Of course, there is serious crime and violence in Mexico. So are the statistics accurate or are the reports overblown? I had a long conversation with my Spanish teacher about some common stories. She thinks that in most cases American tourists are not worth the trouble for criminals, who prefer to prey on poor Mexicans whose cases might not be investigated as thoroughly. The corruption cases she heard about involved Americans who broke the law and were trying to evade responsibility by bribing police officers, which is obviously illegal. I’ve also heard this kind of story where Americans break traffic laws, especially driving under the influence of alcohol. Such behavior puts Mexican cops in a tough spot, where they don’t want to ruin someone’s vacation, but they have a job to do. So, be careful, avoid drugs, follow the law and in my experience, you will be fine.

If you’re driving from California, Tuscon is convenient for getting pesos and printing out car documents like your Mexican insurance policy. You need a hard copy of that, in case you have any trouble in a place without cell service. I found the small Santa Teresa border crossing very quick and easy for getting my TIP—temporary import permit to avoid paying taxes on my car at customs—, and I ended up recrossing the border at Laredo, in order to take advantage of Texas’ high speed highways. Laredo is a great place to get pesos and cross too, and there’s an interesting little history museum next to La Posada Hotel.

Since there is a 542 mile gap in the supercharger network between Veracruz and Campeche, I charged at my hotel overnight. That’s also necessary to get to Calakmul and Palenque and from Veracruz to Sierra Gorda, so I booked hotels with destination chargers, which are cheap and convenient for guests since slow charging is fine overnight.

However, you need to confirm with your hotel in advance that they both have a charger on site and that it is currently working. I arrived at my hotel in Palenque, which advertises “electric car charging on site”, but they laughed at me when I asked to use the car charger. So I had to spend a couple hours at the local Nissan dealer slow-charging for $11. After that, I checked with the rest of my hotels and changed my itinerary when I found two other hotels without working chargers. In another case, a third party charging site at an important stop for me went offline sometime after I departed the US, another unpleasant surprise for me. Off the supercharger network, you need to double-check and have a backup plan, with adapters and third party apps to find alternate charging. But if I can drive to the Yucatan and back, it can’t be that difficult.

Tlacotalpan

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Locals proudly call themselves Los Jarochos, which refers to the cowboys, the music and dance style in this farming & ranching area south of Veracruz city. I passed several sugar cane wagon trains while driving along the river, each one overloaded bumping along over more cane littering the road. Fortunately, I arrived Saturday afternoon on a holiday weekend, so the Papantla Fliers below were performing along with lots of festivities, interesting cocktails including shrimp, lots of vendors and folks setting up for more music on stages in the square.

While the volodores or fliers are UN recognized as intangible world heritage, the historic river port town center is designated a world heritage site for the Spanish colonial architecture with colorful arched colonnades lining the narrow old streets, some only wide enough for horses—which I saw several—and pedestrians. I had seafood in a riverside restaurant named for the locals, and they also served a strangely delicious soursop cocktail, which I enjoyed while watching the small boats go by and families spending time together. This is why I love travel.

Our Crazy Climate

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May is mental health awareness month, so let’s take a moment to consider how the climate crisis is driving us crazy.

Direct immediate impact

Carbon pollution causes more frequent and severe disasters, diseases and heat related deaths. The mental stress of evacuation and losing a home to a wildfire or flood is severe and far worse when lives are lost. Even small changes in our climate can cause diseases to spread into new zones, which causes fear and again lives. Especially among children, elderly, poor and outdoor workers, heat waves kill. Each life lost cascades into communities, causing depression, grief, guilt, isolation, regret and trauma.

Long term impact

The gradual and cumulative loss of our environment diminishes our quality of life. Our global temperature rise is manmade, ongoing, uncontrolled, and unprecedented since we evolved from apes. The coral reefs I dove in my youth are mostly dead now, and with them much of the abundance, beauty and diversity of marine life is disappearing or gone forever. Billions of humans rely on fish in our diet, now threatened by the climate crisis America chooses to ignore. Snowpack loss takes away both our winter recreation and breaks downstream ecosystems. More drought kills more crops and cattle. Excess heat endangers our forests and restricts our time outdoors.

Most Americans are anxious about our future, especially as our past inaction means that our climate will continue to worsen for the rest of our lives. So far this year, I’ve described how our climate crisis is driving mass migration, worsening public health, flooding cities, and increasingly costing our economy. And I’ve got seven more months to discuss other effects.

Band-aid Solutions

17% of Americans are taking prescription medication for their mental health. That’s roughly equivalent to the population of New England, New Jersey, New York, and Pennsylvania. While treating anxiety and depression with drugs helps individuals, medication doesn’t solve the climate crisis.

The political party currently in charge actively suppresses climate education and science and has withdrawn from international climate commitments and cooperation. Neither confusing the public intentionally, denying the threat, enriching those who contribute to it, nor lying about the self-evident truth does anything to solve the climate crisis.

Real Solutions

Do something. Instead of being confused by misinformation, inaction, or just taking drugs, consciously choose to change your carbon footprint. You can’t save life on earth by yourself, but you can eat more locally grown vegetables, take fewer carbon-burning trips and buy locally produced goods and services. You may not own a media monster, but you can talk about the crazy weather with people you meet. You may not be a billionaire ballroom donor, but you can vote. All you must do is make an effort.

Ultimately, all we have is each other. If we communicate more, have more empathy, and try to understand each other better, then together we are all stronger. Individually, we may not have much, so we must make do with what we have. While one deranged man may believe that he alone can solve our problems, that’s wrong. When most of us understand and want to do something, then we can cooperate and get something really done. We the People have the real power. You should use yours to do good.

Franciscan Missions in the Sierra Gorda

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Californians will be familiar with Father Junípero Serra, who built the mission above in Jalpan as well as four others nearby in the mid 1700s, before moving on to California after the Jesuits were expelled from New Spain. The military had ‘pacified’ most of the tribes, to make the roads safe to extract silver dug by enslaved natives. The tribes in this remote mountainous region were relatively cooperative and the fusion of cultures is reflected in the art on the facade.

Serra took St Francis of Assisi’s simple life of charity and poverty and enhanced it with productivity and abuse. Serra brought ‘civilization’ here, replacing native beliefs, burning villages and increasing yields. He flagellated himself regularly and publicly, and he volunteered to lead the Spanish Inquisition in the area, accusing a dark-skinned local woman of witchcraft, of flying around caves at night and of worshipping goat-like demons. The missions are beautiful though. Despite protests, Serra became a saint in 2015.

The Mexican Revolution was unkind to such churches, but due to the rugged terrain, these five were more forgotten than destroyed. Rediscovered in the 1980s, in 2003 UNESCO recognized their facades as among the best examples of Spanish colonial baroque architecture, making these a world heritage site. Much of the region has been preserved by national park and preserves, with Sierra Gorda also being a UNESCO biosphere. There are waterfalls, beautiful rivers, and many places to hike. I drove up the steep dry mountains on one side and along a green river valley on another. But I missed the descent through jungle towards the coast.

All the publicity has made the center of Jalpan—where the first mission above is—quite crowded and touristy, but the other missions are in more traditional, smaller communities nearby. This is a fascinating area to explore, with miles of winding mountain roads, scenic views and more.