Chichén Itzá

As they have for over one thousand years, vendors sell art, crafts, fabrics, jewelry, and more near the grand pyramid at Chichén Itzá. As usual, the experts downplay the role of merchants here, but since merchants are included in a number of the elaborate carvings here, they cannot be forgotten. One area is designated as a market, and it is likely that more of the buildings were also used for commerce. It must be remembered that the Mayans did not use the wheel much, so it wasn’t practical to move goods any more than necessary. Nobody wants to carry around large amounts of copper, jade and obsidian on their back. Except maybe thieves. One of the plaques mentioned that the roads may have included checkpoints, which again makes sense if you’re trying to protect your treasure from raiders.

The guides explain in great detail about the ball courts—including the largest in the Americas—, calendars, gods and temples, which is all interesting, but I wonder why they used to sacrifice humans by throwing them into their own drinking water supply. Even though the water is replenished by an underground river system, that wouldn’t be tasty or wise, even if you’re pre germ theory. Perhaps the most sacred cenotes were more ceremonial and were not always used for drinking water as some guides claim. It’s difficult to imagine a highly organized society thrived for centuries without strict rules.

Anyway, this is a magnificent UNESCO world heritage site with both many intricate details and grand structures, once protected from colonial excavation by a few centuries of jungle overgrowth. The Mayans used exceptionally durable stone and mortar here, conveying their sophisticated culture to us in sharp relief. Consider El CastilloKukulkán, the feathered serpent—below, with 91 steps per side, which chirp like a Quetzal in echo response, perfectly and artistically aligned with the solstices casting serpentine shadows, plus one step on top, making 365 steps to mark the year. For 2,000 years Native American people have marked the days with similar calendar accuracy, displaying their advanced mathematical literacy at the core of their accomplished civilization.

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