Avenue of the Giants

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There’s a 32 mile scenic drive through the Coastal Redwoods parallel to 101 in California along the Eel River, and it’s some kind of wonderful. The Eel River is one of the longest recreational, scenic & wild river systems in the US, and this is one of the prettiest places in the USA. When the kids were little, we paid a bit extra to drive through a tree—just like my grandfather did with his kids in Yosemite in 1952—, and I have happy memories of dining at the old Benbow Inn on the Eel. Over 100 years ago, conservationists who came this way were dismayed by the rapid logging, prompting them to found Save the Redwoods, which got the community to do just that. Today, there are still a dozen or so old growth groves where you can get out, walk, look up and feel very small.

The Eel River empties into the Pacific south of Humboldt Bay, and the Mad River empties north of the bay. The shallow bay has clean water due to tides, and this gives it fine oysters. Try one of the oyster restaurants in Eureka. Many long billed birds—Avocets, Curlews and Willets—rely on this flyway stop. The mouth of the Eel River has been restored, and the eels (Pacific Lamprey) are recovering. This is one of the famed six rivers in this part of Northern California, and it’s exceptional. I’m glad I returned.

Mom, Uncle Nim, Grampy & Grammy in Yellowstone in 1952

Fort Ord National Monument

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The military fort near Monterey California closed in 1994, in 2009 part of the dunes became a state park, and in 2012 President Obama made the rest a national monument. The 15k acre site is currently managed by the Bureau of Land Management with just a few bits of unexploded ordinance in one section, but the rest of the large coastal park on rolling hills is open for hiking, biking and horseback riding. It’s a lovely spot where locals walk their dogs and get some exercise in the fresh air. Much of the site is behind gates that block cars from the roads, but there’s parking in neighboring communities like East Garrison from where folks bike in.

Fort Ord was perhaps best known for being an equestrian military base, supporting the 76th field artillery during WWI and early WWII, complete with an equine hospital. Horse soldiers or cavalry, have a long history predating the USA, although with modern drone warfare even heavy armored ‘cavalry’ like tanks must adapt or become obsolete. Here, I was most interested in the Comanche Horse memorial, and the closest trailhead to that is Jerry Smith. Comanche was the last and most famous parade horse on base, and its rider’s grandfather was a horse soldier during the Native American wars. The ‘original’ Comanche was a survivor of Little Big Horn, and the Comanche buried on a hill in Fort Ord is named for that veteran horse’s bravery.

August Climate Issue

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Our carbon-polluted climate is warming at unprecedented speed as we recklessly burn more carbon, supposedly for our convenience. But we foolishly ignore the many costs, including border security, air pollution, flooding, infrastructure, mental health, rising seas, and food security. August recognizes both National Wellness and Immunization Month, so let’s consider how climate change affects the spread of disease.

Higher temperatures cause droughts which force some animals to try to move into our communities to survive. Bats and rats are in more frequent contact with humans in part due to climate change, and some of them carry diseases like Covid. Also, the decline of certain species in the wild prompts illegal wildlife trafficking of the remaining rare animals, again increasing the odds of disease transmission from animals to humans.

Floods are increasing as snow melts earlier and rainfall concentrates more heavily in certain areas, despite more drought elsewhere. This can overwhelm storm drains or water treatment plants and contaminate water used for drinking, livestock or irrigation. Bacterial infections and gastrointestinal disorders have been increasing as we cook our climate with carbon.

As the atmosphere warms, tropical diseases and bugs are moving into higher latitudes and altitudes for longer periods. More mosquitoes and ticks in the US bring more diseases, especially in summer, to areas previously protected by colder seasons. This increases costs of illness, mitigation, and treatment.

Our current administration is removing any mention of the climate crisis from government websites, as if ignoring a problem can somehow solve it. But at the same time, we have outbreaks of diarrhea, rising cases of West Nile, Dengue Fever, Lyme Disease and Valley Fever, all exacerbated by the climate crisis, even as the Center for Disease Control is subject to massive budget cuts.

Disease prevention is often much less expensive than medical treatment. Tracking and treating a measles case can cost over 400 times as much as a vaccine would have cost, for example. So cutting the CDC budget is penny-wise and pound-foolish. Choosing costly carbon pollution that makes us ill, instead of choosing cleaner, cheaper alternatives, isn’t even penny-wise.

Sand to Snow National Monument

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As the name suggests, this California preserve includes diverse ecosystems from the Colorado and Mojave Deserts to San Gorgonio Mountain. The passes have long been used by Native Americans, and the monument sits just north of the Morongo Reservation. So the area protects both diverse species and cultural heritage.

Jointly managed by the US Forest Service and the Bureau of Land Management, this land connects Joshua Tree with the San Bernardino National Forest and helps close the gap with the Santa Rosa & San Jacinto National Monument. While I-10 cuts between the two monuments, it’s not difficult to imagine a wildlife corridor being built over or under I-10 here someday, similar to the new 101 wildlife crossing near Santa Monica. There are existing I-10 underpasses in Arizona and New Mexico with plans for more.

I was curious about the nearby town on I-10 called Whitewater. Turns out the Whitewater River runs through the monument and picks up white silt in the sandy canyon. So, there’s no whitewater rafting on the river, although recent flash flooding closed a couple trails. The headwaters and upper reach is designated a wild & scenic river, then it turns into a recreational river in the wilderness, then flows through the monument and ends up in the Salton Sea.

While the national monument is fairly new, much of the land has been protected by environmental groups who negotiated donations to protect the area forever. The cabin above is a ranger station in a pretty campground in the canyon. It’s nice to know that there are such lovely places just off the interstate.

National Parks to Visit in August

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For August, I recommend going off the beaten path to Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Great Basin, Isle Royale, Kings Canyon or Voyageurs. While some more famous parks are crowded and hot, a little effort visiting any of these rewards you with exceptional natural beauty.

The popular rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison sits around 8,000 feet, so summer is peak season with August a little cooler than July. Although the 2025 South Rim Fire closed campgrounds and washed out some roads and trails, most visitors only drive along the scenic rim and walk out to the overlooks which remain open. Mid-day can get hot, so plan a relatively short stay on either a clear morning or afternoon to take some great photos.

Great Basin is another very high altitude park where the hiking is good in August up where the bristlecone pines are. While the caves are at lower elevations, they never get hot. And August is less crowded than July. Make reservations and enjoy.

Isle Royale is best in August. It’s warm enough to spend time out hiking, camping or on the water. The bugs aren’t as bad as June and July, and everything is fully open. You just need to get tickets and make reservations by January, which is challenging.

Kings Canyon in August has great weather for hiking. So drive the scenic byway to Roads End, and let your feet take you away into the wilderness. Smart park travelers make reservations in advance and hit the busiest sights first thing in the morning.

Voyageurs has fewer bugs in August than June/July and the water is warmer. And you’re going to want to get out on the water, maybe canoe camping on an island. Again, early planning and reservations are essential.

For earlier months in this series, click January, February, March, April, May, June and July.

Carrizo Plain National Monument

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This month I’m posting my spring visits to national monuments and recreation areas in California, slowly working my way north.

Soda Lake above dries out each summer, leaving alkaline deposits that look like baking soda. The plain is best known for occasional super blooms in April attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors. But the roads are poor, so some folks get stuck in the soft mud in this remote area of coastal California ($1,200 bucks to retrieve your vehicle). The Bureau of Land Management runs a seasonal visitor center from December through May, with exhibits and very helpful staff who can tell you if the petroglyph area is open or not. If you plan to see the wildflowers, definitely call ahead to get the latest info on both the blooms and the roads.

I came early this year after a nice dry stretch while the lake was full and the land was still green and drove all over the place without seeing another person. I saw several golden eagles and watched a small flock of curlew land beside me to peck around with their long thin curved beaks. Geology students often come out to drive along the Dragon’s Back and take photos where Wallace Creek is sharply diverted by the San Andreas Fault, which runs between the seasonal lake and the Temblor Range in the photo above left.

Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains National Monument

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Palm Canyon is part of Indian Canyons, managed by the Agua Caliente Band of Coahuila Indians near Palm Springs, California. Despite some recent fire damage, the trail is still quite beautiful especially in the morning. Palm Canyon Creek is a Wild and Scenic River further upstream, although the upper trail was closed when I visited. The canyon is definitely worth paying for parking and visiting the fine trading post too, although even in winter, the area is quite hot by midday.

Some years ago, I took my family up on the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, which has a good view of the north part of this Bureau of Land Management monument. But this trip I enjoyed hiking into the canyon to see the largest oasis grove of shaggy California fan palms. It’s a magical spot with birds zipping between the trees, butterflies and even a coyote seeking water.

National Parks along Route 66 (plus Photos)

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Driving Route 66 will take you from Pullman, through Chicago Portage, Lincoln’s Home, 1908 Race Riot, US Grant’s home, Gateway Arch, Oklahoma City, Pecos, Petroglyph, Petrified Forest, Walnut Canyon and Mojave Preserve to Santa Monica. And that’s a great trip covering a lot of territory, from natural wonders to Native American sites, on the paths of explorers, and through our history.

  • Pullman Historical Park tells the story of our railroad industry amid the homes of those who worked and went on strike.
  • Chicago Portage dates back to French-Canadian explorers 100 years before America was born.
  • Lincoln’s Home in Springfield preserves his whole neighborhood, and the 1908 Race Riot site nearby shows that violence against Civil Rights continues long after the Civil War.
  • Ulysses S Grant’s home is a pretty place that explains the origins and accomplishments of one of our greatest Presidents.
  • Gateway Arch commemorates Jefferson’s Louisiana Purchase and the grand expansion of our country.
  • In the heart of Oklahoma City stands a moving memorial to the American men, women and children killed in a horrific act of domestic terror.
  • At Pecos you can climb down into a Puebloan ceremonial kiva and also visit a critical historic battle site.
  • Petroglyph is tucked in a suburban area where you can walk up to see ancient carvings made by prehistoric travelers.
  • Route 66 drives right through the Petrified Forest, and the Desert Inn evokes a bit of that travel history.
  • Walnut Canyon is right off the highway and is one of the best cliff dwelling sites in the southwest.
  • Mojave National Preserve contains canyons, sand dunes, lava tubes, soda lakes and an oasis[link].
  • Santa Monica is the California Dream with beautiful ocean views, recreation and locations you grew up watching on TV.

Route 66 celebrates its 100th birthday this year, and it is a traveler’s paradise. My grandfather and great, great aunt each passed that way just over 100 years ago, and I just stopped at the Bagdad Cafe earlier this year on one of many trips along the way. If you’re interested in trails, you will cross sections of the Butterfield Overland, the E Mojave Trails, Lewis & Clark, the Old Spanish Trails, the Pioneer Trails, the Santa Fe Trail, and the Trail of Tears. The Route starts near the Bronzeville neighborhood of Chicago and crosses the North Rio Grande as “winds from Chicago to L.A/ More than two thousand miles all the way” as Nat King Cole used to sing Bobby Troup’s verses.

“Now it goes through Saint Looey
Joplin, Missouri
Oklahoma City looks mighty pretty
You'll see Amarillo
Gallup, New Mexico
Flagstaff, Arizona
Don't forget Winona
Kingman, Barstow, San Bernardino“

If you’re interested in Native American sites, take brief detours to visit Alibates Quarry, Bandelier, Chaco Culture, Canyon de Chelly, Chickasaw Recreation, Hubbell Trading, Montezuma Castle, Taos Pueblo, Tuzigoot, Washita Battlefield, and Wupatki. They comprise some of the best and most diverse experiences in the southwest, so click, read more and go!

And many other fascinating parks from small and obscure to big and famous are also just off Route 66, along with countless wonderful photogenic bits of Americana: perhaps America’s best road trip and a great way to celebrate both its 100th birthday and America’s 250th.

  • Ste. Geneviève is a cultural gem preserving a French community south of St Louis.
  • The Ozark River is one of the most beautiful places to float in the country.
  • GW Carver pays tribute to an influential American scientist and educator who overcame great adversity.
  • Fort Union is a dusty ruin that evokes the hard life of US Army Cavalry out west.
  • Los Alamos is a fascinating and well preserved town made famous for the Manhattan Project.
  • El Malpais has names from travelers carved in the rock since prehistoric times, and El Morro has bat caves.
  • Arizona has both Sunset Volcanic Crater and the best meteor crater in the world near the route.
  • Lake Mead has lots of great recreation.
  • Joshua Tree looks surreal.
  • And Death Valley is phenomenal.

Photos clockwise from top left: Kingman, Desert Inn, Amboy, Gallup, Gateway Arch, Shamrock, Wupatki, Gillette Mansion, Bagdad Cafe, and Zzyzx.

Bagdad Cafe

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The 1987 cult classic film Bagdad Cafe was filmed in the California desert on Route 66. If you’ve seen it, you likely remember the lonely song “Calling You”, the quirky characters and the dusty location. I’m going to write about the movie, rather than describe the tens of millions of acres of the National Conservation Lands of the California Desert including the Mojave Trails and many large wilderness areas managed by the Bureau of Land Management, because the movie captures the weird, lonesome feeling of the desert and its ghost towns better than I can.

Carson McCullers wrote a novella called The Ballad of the Sad Cafe, which, along with the landscape, inspired a German director, Percy Adlon, to create this movie. He wrote a completely new script and renamed the cafe after a nearby ghost town in order to introduce a bit of magic into the story.

Here’s a hint for folks who may have missed the Aladdin connection. Instead of a magic lamp, a thief from Bagdad steals a gold colored coffee thermos from a German tourist named Jasmin. Trapped in the cafe (after being abandoned by her husband), Jasmin works her magic like a genie on three sad cafe folk: a piano player, an artist and the owner.

The film was a hit in the director’s home country of Germany and elsewhere in Europe, and bus loads of French tourists still frequently stop here to buy souvenirs. The movie was made into a TV show starring Whoopi Goldberg and Jean Stapleton, which didn’t do very well, because the adaptation removed both the magic and the whole ‘lonesome desert’ angle, by making the cafe busy and turning the characters into excellent communicators. Miscommunication among misfits is central to the film, as is the sparsely populated desert backdrop.

Sadly, the owner of the Bagdad Cafe just died, and I don’t know how long they’ll stay open, with I-10 no longer following the historic Route 66 past here and with the cafe known for a 40 year old movie. I’ve driven through many of these ghost towns and isolated places headed that way, and I often wonder what kind of dreams—broken or crazy—drove people to try to build lives out here in the middle of nowhere. Still, you never know about places like this; they may last another 40 years. I think the emptiness of the desert gives people a chance to live a different life than the routines and social norms in which most people are stuck. Anyway, watch the film, which conveys more than I can.

Mojave Trails from Amboy to Zzyzx

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Mojave Trails National Monument lies south of Mojave National Preserve and includes a section of 100 year old Route 66 in southern California. But the broader East Mojave Heritage Trails extend through both areas and far beyond, north to the Kingston Range near the Nevada border, east to the Dead Mountains Wilderness near Needles, and south to Sheephole Valley, Old Woman and Turtle Mountains wildernesses. Many of the trails follow the old Spanish trails and Native American routes through passes to water sources. Until this trip, I didn’t realize that California has more desert lands than Arizona, that there were so many huge wilderness conservation lands managed by the Bureau of Land Management, or just how diverse the landscapes are. Even without a four wheel drive off road vehicle, you can see Kelso Dunes, Soda Lake, and hike to lava tubes.

The monument has a stretch of ten whistle stop towns named alphabetically starting with Amboy, known for its volcanic crater above. The 250’ high crater can be hiked, but I just wandered around the viewing area nearby. Most of these towns have since returned to dust, but Roy’s Cafe is still open in Amboy, thanks to the son of a chicken chain owner who bought the town decades ago. I enjoy visiting ghost towns and dusty old cafes in the middle of nowhere, and California’s Route 66 has several photogenic spots. I’ll write about my favorite one next time.

If you’ve ever driven I-15 between Los Angeles and Las Vegas, you may have wondered about the exit for Zzyzx. Zzyzx was created as a health treatment by a radio conman in the 1940s on the shore of Soda Lake in the Mojave Desert. He developed an oasis resort and sold his salty cure-all by mail nationwide, until he ran into some legal trouble in the 1970s. Now most of the area is within the Mojave National Preserve, and a local college uses the buildings, but it’s still a beautiful spot not to be missed.