Monuments

Hanford Reach National Monument

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Fish & Wildlife manages this stretch of the Columbia River, various highlands and a lake here. Supposedly the area is good for wildlife, including elk and various birds. I thought the area looked desolate and didn’t see any wildlife. There are a couple dams upstream, and the river takes a long curve around to the right above. There used to be a paddling rental & shuttle business here, but they closed during Covid and haven’t reopened. I considered bringing my folding kayak for this relatively easy part of the Columbia to paddle, but I decided against it and didn’t see any other boats. It would have been very windy and difficult to get back.

In 1943 the US military took over this area, evacuating everyone. In the background above right there’s a building with a smokestack. That is Reactor B, which processed weapons grade plutonium for the Manhattan Project, and much of the land around here is still restricted. There used to be a small city of workers on the secret project, but only a few buildings remain and none were open for tours when I visited. The river was critical for keeping the reactor cool. Tours of the reactor are scheduled to resume in late 2027.

Behind the reactor are White Bluffs, which were formed by deposits in the Ice Age floods, along with patterns of river sediments called rhythmites. I did a bit of hiking around here, but there are still many restrictions on where you can go. In theory, the decades of isolation benefited wildlife, but USFWS allows hunting, fishing and motorized vehicles in much of the monument. Looking for wildlife is much more challenging near hunting zones, so I was disappointed but not surprised that I didn’t see any.

Newberry National Volcanic Monument

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This US Forest Service site near Bend Oregon has a long lava tube cave, obsidian, lakes, a view of the volcanic Cascades above and more. 7,000 years ago a lava flow redirected the Deschutes River which now runs along the north part of the monument, and there’s an easy hike to Benham Falls on the river trail. The open season is quite short in summer, with restrictions on visitors to different sections. With the heat these days, the monument should open by May 1st, but whatever. I arrived early before other sections opened in June, and went to see the lava cast forest. I’ve never seen so many clear impressions of tree trunks left behind after being surrounded by lava. See one example below.

Cascade-Siskiyou National Monument

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The Pacific Crest Trail strolls by Hyatt Lake above, not far from Ashland Oregon, where Northern Californians come up to watch Shakespeare. Honestly the drive up overlooking a deep beautiful valley was far more striking than the pretty lake, but I couldn’t get a decent photograph. The Cascade, Klamath & Siskiyou mountain ranges meet here, and the meadow in the valley is known as Hyatt Prairie. Besides larger animals, the area is well known for bird and butterfly watching, with hundreds of species.

I finally understand the naming conventions of the mountains up here. The Pacific Coast Mountain System includes all the coastal mountains from California up into Alaska. Within that, the Cascades are the young volcanic mountains that run through northern California up to Canada, including Mt Lassen, Mt Shasta, Crater Lake, Mt Rainier, and other stratovolcanoes up to the North Cascades. Within that, the Klamath Mountains are an older range formed by tectonic uplift in northern California and southern Oregon that includes the important Rogue, Smith, Klamath, and Trinity River watersheds, plus the headwaters of the Sacramento River around Shasta Lake. Within that, the Siskiyou Mountains are the stretch that connects the coastal mountains of northern California and Oregon between the Klamath and Rogue Rivers.

This mountainous Bureau of Land Management national monument has fascinating geology, great rivers, and diverse wildlife. The weird mix of soils from ancient seabeds to volcanic debris presents challenges to the plants that have adapted here. Two examples are the cobra lily, a cowled pitcher plant, and the serpentine jewelflower which takes on a purplish tinge here. I recommend reading some of the free Cascade-Siskiyou guides on animals, butterflies, geology and plants before going hiking.

There’s something magical about the smell of the forests up here in Oregon, with the occasional colorful butterfly scooting past, and folks taking their kids fishing while camping by the lake. In town, I tried morel mushrooms and a chocolate porter at the Caldera Brewery, and it was the best meal I’ve had since leaving San Francisco. Folks up here seem to understand the good life.

Sáttítla National Monument

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While trying to find a plowed road through the highlands northeast of Mount Shasta in northern California, I asked a local what he knew about this Biden monument, but he hadn’t heard of the park we were both in. He referred to the area as the Medicine Lake ridge, and he suggested that nearby Glass Mountain was also worth visiting. Medicine Lake above is named for the large low profile or ‘shield’ volcano it sits below. The high point is almost 8,000 feet, but the whole area is high enough to have snow drifts blocking roads in May.

Sáttítla means ‘Obsidian’ in the local native language, and Glass Mountain is loaded with the black volcanic glass. To be clear, this is the Glass Mountain in Modoc National Forest near Lava Beds, not the 11,000+ foot Glass Mountain in the Inyo National Forest near Yosemite. The road and hiking are rough in this US Forest Service monument, and it’s illegal to gather obsidian. Fortunately the active volcano hasn’t erupted in 1000 years or so. But geologically, this is still a fascinating area.

The many volcanoes in Northern California, like Lassen and Shasta, are created by action deep below the surface. Until I got lost up here, I never knew that when one of the tectonic subduction plates slides under the continent, it can slice off a top surface layer, leaving contrasting features. Besides sharp peaks like Black Butte aside 101, there are faults that cause water falls like Middle Falls near McCloud below on its way to Shasta Lake.

Fort Ord National Monument

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The military fort near Monterey California closed in 1994, in 2009 part of the dunes became a state park, and in 2012 President Obama made the rest a national monument. The 15k acre site is currently managed by the Bureau of Land Management with just a few bits of unexploded ordinance in one section, but the rest of the large coastal park on rolling hills is open for hiking, biking and horseback riding. It’s a lovely spot where locals walk their dogs and get some exercise in the fresh air. Much of the site is behind gates that block cars from the roads, but there’s parking in neighboring communities like East Garrison from where folks bike in.

Fort Ord was perhaps best known for being an equestrian military base, supporting the 76th field artillery during WWI and early WWII, complete with an equine hospital. Horse soldiers or cavalry, have a long history predating the USA, although with modern drone warfare even heavy armored ‘cavalry’ like tanks must adapt or become obsolete. Here, I was most interested in the Comanche Horse memorial, and the closest trailhead to that is Jerry Smith. Comanche was the last and most famous parade horse on base, and its rider’s grandfather was a horse soldier during the Native American wars. The ‘original’ Comanche was a survivor of Little Big Horn, and the Comanche buried on a hill in Fort Ord is named for that veteran horse’s bravery.

Sand to Snow National Monument

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As the name suggests, this California preserve includes diverse ecosystems from the Colorado and Mojave Deserts to San Gorgonio Mountain. The passes have long been used by Native Americans, and the monument sits just north of the Morongo Reservation. So the area protects both diverse species and cultural heritage.

Jointly managed by the US Forest Service and the Bureau of Land Management, this land connects Joshua Tree with the San Bernardino National Forest and helps close the gap with the Santa Rosa & San Jacinto National Monument. While I-10 cuts between the two monuments, it’s not difficult to imagine a wildlife corridor being built over or under I-10 here someday, similar to the new 101 wildlife crossing near Santa Monica. There are existing I-10 underpasses in Arizona and New Mexico with plans for more.

I was curious about the nearby town on I-10 called Whitewater. Turns out the Whitewater River runs through the monument and picks up white silt in the sandy canyon. So, there’s no whitewater rafting on the river, although recent flash flooding closed a couple trails. The headwaters and upper reach is designated a wild & scenic river, then it turns into a recreational river in the wilderness, then flows through the monument and ends up in the Salton Sea.

While the national monument is fairly new, much of the land has been protected by environmental groups who negotiated donations to protect the area forever. The cabin above is a ranger station in a pretty campground in the canyon. It’s nice to know that there are such lovely places just off the interstate.

Carrizo Plain National Monument

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This month I’m posting my spring visits to national monuments and recreation areas in California, slowly working my way north.

Soda Lake above dries out each summer, leaving alkaline deposits that look like baking soda. The plain is best known for occasional super blooms in April attracting hundreds of thousands of visitors. But the roads are poor, so some folks get stuck in the soft mud in this remote area of coastal California ($1,200 bucks to retrieve your vehicle). The Bureau of Land Management runs a seasonal visitor center from December through May, with exhibits and very helpful staff who can tell you if the petroglyph area is open or not. If you plan to see the wildflowers, definitely call ahead to get the latest info on both the blooms and the roads.

I came early this year after a nice dry stretch while the lake was full and the land was still green and drove all over the place without seeing another person. I saw several golden eagles and watched a small flock of curlew land beside me to peck around with their long thin curved beaks. Geology students often come out to drive along the Dragon’s Back and take photos where Wallace Creek is sharply diverted by the San Andreas Fault, which runs between the seasonal lake and the Temblor Range in the photo above left.

Santa Rosa and San Jacinto Mountains National Monument

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Palm Canyon is part of Indian Canyons, managed by the Agua Caliente Band of Coahuila Indians near Palm Springs, California. Despite some recent fire damage, the trail is still quite beautiful especially in the morning. Palm Canyon Creek is a Wild and Scenic River further upstream, although the upper trail was closed when I visited. The canyon is definitely worth paying for parking and visiting the fine trading post too, although even in winter, the area is quite hot by midday.

Some years ago, I took my family up on the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway, which has a good view of the north part of this Bureau of Land Management monument. But this trip I enjoyed hiking into the canyon to see the largest oasis grove of shaggy California fan palms. It’s a magical spot with birds zipping between the trees, butterflies and even a coyote seeking water.

Mojave Trails from Amboy to Zzyzx

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Mojave Trails National Monument lies south of Mojave National Preserve and includes a section of 100 year old Route 66 in southern California. But the broader East Mojave Heritage Trails extend through both areas and far beyond, north to the Kingston Range near the Nevada border, east to the Dead Mountains Wilderness near Needles, and south to Sheephole Valley, Old Woman and Turtle Mountains wildernesses. Many of the trails follow the old Spanish trails and Native American routes through passes to water sources. Until this trip, I didn’t realize that California has more desert lands than Arizona, that there were so many huge wilderness conservation lands managed by the Bureau of Land Management, or just how diverse the landscapes are. Even without a four wheel drive off road vehicle, you can see Kelso Dunes, Soda Lake, and hike to lava tubes.

The monument has a stretch of ten whistle stop towns named alphabetically starting with Amboy, known for its volcanic crater above. The 250’ high crater can be hiked, but I just wandered around the viewing area nearby. Most of these towns have since returned to dust, but Roy’s Cafe is still open in Amboy, thanks to the son of a chicken chain owner who bought the town decades ago. I enjoy visiting ghost towns and dusty old cafes in the middle of nowhere, and California’s Route 66 has several photogenic spots. I’ll write about my favorite one next time.

If you’ve ever driven I-15 between Los Angeles and Las Vegas, you may have wondered about the exit for Zzyzx. Zzyzx was created as a health treatment by a radio conman in the 1940s on the shore of Soda Lake in the Mojave Desert. He developed an oasis resort and sold his salty cure-all by mail nationwide, until he ran into some legal trouble in the 1970s. Now most of the area is within the Mojave National Preserve, and a local college uses the buildings, but it’s still a beautiful spot not to be missed.

Chuckwalla National Monument

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In Southern California’s Chuckwalla Mountains—named after the chunky chuckwalla lizard—you can pull off I-10 and drive up into a BLM campground in the oasis above. Although there was a fire recently, half of the palms in the oasis are still okay. Honestly, my brief hike was a bit disappointing, with no sign of the lizard. Since it’s obviously hot in the desert, staying at a campground overnight can be a good way to hike early morning when it’s cooler.

Despite all those TV commercials suggesting that you need some big gas-guzzler to drive into the desert, I made it in my electric car. Desert unpaved roads are inconsistent depending on recent weather. But since it’s usually dry, the roads are usually fine. So I ignored the sign saying 4 wheel drive only, and I had no trouble in my low clearance sedan over the 6 mile road, which alternately is sandy, hard, flat, rocky and bumpy. A flash flood could wash out a road, so you do need to watch the weather especially if camping.

In my next post I’ll talk more about different types of national monuments and recreation areas, but this one extends the Joshua Tree ecosystem south and southeast, connecting over 600,000 acres of remote mountainous wilderness between the Sonoran and Mojave deserts.