UndergroundRailroad

Road to Abolition

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The American movement to abolish slavery began before the Constitution was written. In 1780, Pennsylvania enacted a law gradually abolishing slavery. When he was in Philadelphia as President, George Washington tried to evade this law by rotating his slaves back to Virginia, although one, Oney Judge, escaped and lived out her life in New Hampshire, despite Washington’s efforts to reclaim her. By 1783 the Supreme Court of Massachusetts declared slavery unconstitutional in the state, abolishing it and making the state a focal point for abolition for the next 80 years. Thomas Jefferson called slavery immoral, a threat to the nation and contrary to the laws of nature, but he didn’t free his own slaves and edited his own anti-slavery views out of the final draft of the Constitution to placate other slaveowners, like Charles Pinckney. Before John Dickinson signed the Constitution in 1787, he freed his slaves unconditionally in 1786. 

The Northwest Territories, now the northeastern states of the Midwest, were free in 1787 before they became states, and by 1817, all but one of the states north of the Mason-Dixon Line abolished slavery either immediately or over time. Delaware was the exception, where slavery persisted despite being viewed as abhorrent by Quakers, such as Thomas Garrett, who ultimately helped liberate over 2,500 slaves. The Liberator, a weekly newspaper begun in 1831 in Boston by William Garrison, spread throughout the free states, making Abolition a national issue and sparking direct action, including liberating slaves south of the Mason-Dixon. 

In 1838 Frederick Douglass escaped slavery in Maryland by train through Delaware to Philadelphia, and quickly he married in New York and settled in New Bedford. That same September, self-educated Douglass went to Nantucket to hear his favorite publisher Garrison speak and was asked to speak himself, giving his first-hand views of slavery. 20 years later, Douglass had written two best-selling autobiographies, toured the North, traveled to London, and was giving fiery speeches to abolitionists at Boston’s African Meeting House.

Fellow escaped Maryland slave Harriet Tubman was in the audience, listening to Douglass speak and raising funds there for the Underground Railroad, when she wasn’t liberating slaves in Maryland herself or with her friend Garrett. The Underground Railroad also helped slaves escape up the Mississippi River to New Philadelphia—an Illinois town founded in 1836 by a freed slave—before escaping the reach of the Fugitive Slave Act by crossing the Canadian border. Few of the stops on the Underground Railroad still exist, but I believe Mammoth Cave may have been one, as the enslaved tour guide had rare freedom to organize both tours for visiting Abolitionists and temporary lodgings for “servants”. 

Abolition was also fought in the courts. In 1839, Africans took over the slave ship Amistad, killed the captain and cook and demanded the crew sail back to Africa. Caught off of New York, their murder trial pitted racist President Van Buren against abolitionist John Quincy Adams. The Supreme Court found that the Africans had been kidnapped, had acted within their legal rights to avoid slavery, and were free. The courts were struggling with slavery, where one’s race could change legally from state to state, depending on one’s ancestry. In 1846 a court found a Florida woman, once a slave from Senegal, to be legally Spanish, allowing her to inherit her owner/husband’s plantation. The legislative fight over slavery in new states broke into armed confIict in Kansas in 1854. In 1857, the Supreme Court ruled against a slave named Dred Scott who had sued for freedom in St Louis, arguing that he had become free while in Illinois. Abolitionists, enraged, funded John Brown’s 1859 raid on Harpers Ferry. 

Secession did not stop slaves from trying to self-emancipate. Every Union border outpost or advance into Confederate territory became a magnet for escaping slaves. In 1861, on the day Virginia seceded, three slaves turned up at Fort Monroe and were given protection by the Union Army, which officially labeled them ‘contraband’ meaning ‘illegal to possess’. When the Confederates evacuated Port Royal in late 1861, 10,000 slaves were effectively freed, and Harriet Tubman soon arrived to expand her network of spies and liberators. One of the first Union naval victories happened in 1862, when enslaved pilot Robert Smalls commandeered a Confederate ship, sailed past Fort Sumter at night with his friends & families to freedom, and gave the ship to the Union Navy in nearby Port Royal. 

Abraham Lincoln, whose experiences as a boy and as an anti-slavery advocate had prepared him to be President at this crucial time, issued the Emancipation Proclamation on New Years Day 1863—first read under the Emancipation Oaks at Port Royal South Carolina (see photo above)—, both freeing slaves and allowing the formation of African American regiments to fight for freedom, first at Port Royal in South Carolina, then in Massachusetts, Kansas and Kentucky. In 1865, the 13th Amendment abolishing slavery was proposed, passed, signed and ratified, abolishing slavery in the United States, almost. 

In 1866 the ‘Five Civilized Tribes’ in Oklahoma changed their laws to recognize that slavery was no longer legal, making the law legally effective nationally that June. While emancipation reached Texas on Juneteenth 1865, the state officially ratified the 13th Amendment in 1870. Delaware rejected the 13th Amendment in 1865, and they finally ratified it in 1901. Kentucky ratified the 13th Amendment in 1976. And Mississippi, the last state, ratified the 13th Amendment in 1995, but neglected to inform the National Archives to make it official, until 2013. 

Traveling to all the national park sites related to Abolitionism has been deeply moving, and I especially recommend the Boston African American Historic Site, the Harriet Tubman National Historical Park in upstate New York, and most of all, Reconstruction Era National Historical Park near Beaufort, South Carolina. Next week I will cover the Civil War. 

Harriet Tubman National Historical Park

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Harriet lived in Auburn—when not on the road—from 1859 until her death in 1913. The photo above recently discovered locally is the youngest one on display here. One local visitor said that his grandmother used to visit her and sit in her lap, and he brought more photos. The long term docent, a Vietnam Vet, used to live in the Tubman house and helped lead the effort to raise money for the restoration. Tubman purchased seven acres here from William Seward, of ‘Seward’s Folly’ fame, and a few of her belongings are on display—including her bed, bible and sewing machine—in the old folks home she managed here.

The park rangers are in town, while the home tours are run by the AME Zion Church, an official park partner. Until the operating agreements are finalized, the partner organization runs the majority of the park with a small devoted staff of around one, and the park service runs the church in town which Harriet attended.

I highly recommend reserving the tour, given at 10 and 2. I believe the docent’s name is Paul Carter, and he is both extremely knowledgeable and an excellent storyteller. For example, many of the visitors had heard about secret messages hidden in quilts that supposedly were used to give directions on the Underground Railroad. But there is little to no evidence of this, and logically it isn’t clear how these messages would have been understood by plantation slaves.

When Harriet was seven, she was spotted eating a cube of sugar, which meant being whipped mercilessly. Instead, she hid for days in a pigsty, fighting for scraps to eat. As a teen she received the head injury which caused a type of epilepsy that she interpreted as giving her visions. This was in Maryland, where she feared being sold down to the Deep South where conditions were much worse.

Keenly aware of the brutality and deadly reality of slavery, she began organizing escapes for herself and her relatives. With support of Abolitionists on the Underground Railroad, she became its most legendary conductor, personally leading 13 missions of hundreds of miles from plantation to Canada on foot, often crossing the border near here, rescuing 70 directly, more indirectly and losing none. She gave away her own money, spoke to Abolitionist groups, and raised money to end slavery. During the Civil War she spied behind enemy lines and led troops into combat rescuing many hundreds more. Later in life she spoke in support of women’s suffrage, with her friends Frederick Douglass and Susan B. Anthony. This iconic American hero stood less than five feet tall, and she more than deserves her place on the $20 bill.

If you hear the dogs, keep going.
If you see the torches in the woods, keep going.
If there’s shouting after you, keep going.
Don’t ever stop. Keep going.
If you want a taste of freedom, keep going.

Harriet Tubman

New Philadelphia National Historic Site

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‘Free’ Frank McWorter mined saltpeter as a slave, purchased first his wife’s, then his and ultimately 14 more family members’ freedom and founded this town with 12 dozen plots in 1836, the first African American registered & surveyed town in America. It was a mixed race community as Frank sold lots to all, and it became an important stop on the Underground Railroad. Fugitive slaves were assisted across the rivers, hidden in wagons and at least one basement and were even accompanied to Canada. Unfortunately, at the end of the 19th century the actual railroad bypassed the town in favor of a white town, so eventually folks moved away.

None of the early buildings survive, but there are a few old buildings built on their foundations, providing years of fun for archaeologists. There are a dozen or so signs explaining whether the plot belonged to the shoemaker, wheelwright, carpenter, seamstress, physician, teacher, merchant, cabinet maker, the blacksmith or the Post Office (above). Many of those tradespeople provided invaluable services to fugitive slaves. I wasn’t able to load the VR app which superimposes cartoon pioneers on your screen to help you visualize, but I was fine without. This brand new park is not in the completely uninteresting town of New Philadelphia, Illinois, an hour north, but it is about 30 miles east of the interesting town of Hannibal, MO.

On April 22nd, the park film was screened in Springfield, and, being a park nerd, I attended the gala park service premiere (cookies were served). Several members of the community responsible for gaining recognition for the site were there. The film was produced mainly by staff from the Lincoln Home. Just as Lincoln’s presence here attracted freedom-seekers, the folks here are broadening out understanding of history.

Mammoth Cave National Park

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Where Carlsbad is like the Mines of Moria where you’re expecting goblins to stream out of the crevices into the magnificent cathedral-sized chambers, Mammoth is definitely hollow-earth lizard people. The walls are fairly smooth and plain and the ”cave” is actually an incredibly long maze of tunnels with underground rivers. I figure since the ceilings vary in height that only lizard people who are equally comfortable either upright or on all fours would feel at home roaming the endless passageways. The ranger herding us from the back concurred and told scary stories which kept us moving right along.

The cave is a World Heritage Site. Above ground is a huge forest with miles of trails, several nice campgrounds, and the Green River which runs deep enough to require a small car ferry at one point. The clean ecosystem above helps keep rare blind cave fish and other species alive below.

The ranger leading the historic tour explained that a slave named Stephen Bishop first crossed the ’bottomless pit’ and discovered the fish while guiding tourists. His tours gained widespread fame and included luminaries like Emerson. Bishop was evidently fearless, had an unusual amount of freedom as a guide and educated himself in geology and other subjects to converse with visitors. Emerson’s tour lasted all day, and they must have had interesting discussions. Emerson and his literary friends were conductors on the Underground Railway at the time, and many slaves escaped through Kentucky in the area near the cave. Bishop must have been motivated to use his unique access into the hundreds of miles of tunnels under Kentucky, since his own children were sold away into slavery. He died shortly after gaining his freedom in unknown circumstances.

Speaking of railroads, I charged my Tesla at the Casey Jones Museum in Jackson Tennessee on the way, and got a kick out of how modes of transportation change. I also ate at the Old Country Store there, which was reasonably priced and delicious, and it surprised me. Outside it celebrated the confederate General Nathan Bedford Forrest of KKK infamy, but inside it had a thoughtful and beautifully done exhibit on the Woolworth lunch-counter protests. Much like Mammoth Cave, you sometimes can’t judge what’s happening beneath the surface. Similarly, this post has been too long and meandering, but I hope somehow it’s all connected.