Mary McLeod Bethune Council House National Historic Site

An advisor to half a dozen presidents, founder of schools, civics organizations and the archive above, Mary McLeod Bethune was a dynamo who devoted her life to advancing the lives of people who had been denied equal rights for centuries. Her home office in DC, the headquarters for the African American women’s movement, is just up the street from the White House, where she worked in FDR’s administration, as the first African American woman to lead a federal department. She later was the only African American woman to attend the founding of the UN in San Francisco. She worked with Frederick Douglass, Booker T. Washington, WEB DuBois, Maggie L Walker, Nannie Burroughs, and Carter Woodson, and she skillfully raised funds from John D. Rockefeller and many white elites at the Palmetto Club in Florida.

The house has recently reopened after some renovations, but the interior rooms and exhibits are still being reorganized. Given the extensive race and gender barriers, the home often had to put up visitors in the top floor, who were unwelcome at DC hotels. The upstairs office was full of busy staff, managing events, publishing articles, and coordinating activities nationally. Downstairs the parlor hosted guests and the conference room hosted important meetings and kept detailed records. The tour guide was exceptionally knowledgeable and provided the context needed to judge the scale of her contributions to our history. Guaranteed to learn here.

Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens

This DC park is managed by Capital Parks East, which includes the long riverside park and 12 mile bike trail along the Anacostia. In summer, this is likely the prettiest DC park, when the water lilies are in bloom. Once a commercial enterprise, the community now volunteers to maintain this beautiful “oasis in the city”, and I saw a dozen folks knee deep in the mud digging around among the roots. Outside of the water lily ponds, there are wetlands accessible by boardwalk. I saw a Great Blue Heron, sandpipers and various warblers, and the water is also full of life.

That this park exists is a bit miraculous. The area was a failed tobacco plantation, a failed port, a failed reclamation project, a failed industrial zone, a failed housing development, a failed country club, a dump, and a Hooverville of WWI veterans who were removed by the Army after asking for their promised bonus, which failed.

The water lily business was the most successful, with species from all over the world. Civil War veteran WB Shaw and his daughter Helen Fowler ran it in the ‘20s and ‘30s. The wetlands are now seen as critical habitats that keep the river healthy. Freshwater mussels now clean what was once a terribly polluted river. African American community leaders like Rhuedine Davis and Walter McDowney recreated the gardens and taught kids to love nature’s beauty. We owe them all a great debt.

César E. Chávez National Monument

I returned here today to see the exhibits, as they were closed when I visited last year. The black & white photos of the Delano grape strike and Chávez’s hunger strike remarks are particularly moving. Pesticides were not regulated at all then, and labor was denied rights by growers. Chávez’s national boycott of grapes helped change both.

Today, growers drain rivers, lakes, wetlands and water tables, even as the western half of the country suffers in drought. In Kern County, where the Monument is, the Kern River no longer flows to the Kern Lake, due to diversion for agriculture. In order to sell more produce, growers are ruining the environment for fish, animals and people. Climate change and some farming practices also exacerbate Valley Fever, a deadly fungal infection spreading in California & Arizona.

Agriculture is a trillion dollar industry in the US, with $150 billion in exports. But Big Ag prefers to blame Democrats, rather than face the fundamental challenge of the climate crisis. Big Ag needs to convert farm equipment to electric, and they need to stop using fossil fuel to ship their produce around the world. They also need to cooperate to restore wetlands to sequester carbon.

César Chávez devoted his life to raise awareness and lead civil disobedience to make change. He acknowledged that in the struggle against the rich and powerful, poor people only have their lives “and the justice of our cause” on their side. Today, we need more people to be just as devoted to stop the climate crisis.

Wisteria, photographed in my previous visit in 2021.