Fort Jefferson is an impressive 19th century structure, used to police ship traffic between Florida and Cuba. The island was named for the sea turtles that still nest here, and there are many seabirds too. There are lovely views of the courtyard above and all around the small island from the top of the walls. I was pleased to see a goliath grouper near the ferry dock, and despite the poor coral condition, the snorkeling was very good among the old dock pilings near the south beach. Together with the Everglades, Dry Tortugas is a large UNESCO Biosphere. I saw hundreds of fish and birds. This is one of my favorite national parks.

The flight is much more expensive than the ferry, but there are some benefits. I was kicking myself for not reserving ferry tickets enough months in advance, but when I realized that the seaplane only flies a hundred and fifty feet or so over the shallow waters, I decided the short flight was worthwhile for the views. From the air, we saw two shipwrecks, one a navy boat used for target practice and the other a famous treasure hunter’s floating guard shack, plus many sea turtles, some sharks, maybe a stingray, a pod of dolphin, and flying fish scattering over the surface. First time for me to see all that from the air. Also, the flight saved me a lot of time. If you’re just visiting Key West—I took the Conch Tour decades ago—to get to the Dry Tortugas, then you can drive in, catch a 10 am flight, and be on your way, saving two very expensive hotel nights on Key West. Plus, it’s less crowded when you first arrive, they include snorkel gear—definitely snorkel—, and you get the view of the fort below.