Aztec

Pyramids of Mexico

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UNESCO has designated many pre-Hispanic world heritage sites in Mexico, but the country has many more ruins, some still undiscovered or un-excavated. In the caves of Mitla & Yagul, there is evidence of agricultural cultivation from 10,000 years ago. The 25 ton Olmec Head #1 above is over 3,000 years old, reflecting the early civilization that arose in the fertile river valleys in southern Veracruz and Tabasco. El Tajin preserves both later pyramids built in this region 600-1200, and UNESCO also recognizes the living, continuing cultural heritage of the Papantla Flyers that reflect rain ceremonies dating back over 2,000 years.

The Mayans also date back over 3,000 years, with new discoveries still being uncovered in the Yucatán jungle. Along what’s now the Guatemalan border, the Mayans eventually built great pyramids at Palenque flourishing between 100-740 and Calakmul 50-850 among other temple jungle cities, like Uxmal which displays the artistry of later Mayan temples. Chief among the Mayan cities was Chichén Itzá, an important center for 12 centuries, used at the end by the warrior Toltecs.

2,500 years ago the Zapotecs began building grand pyramids atop Monte Albán overlooking the valley of Oaxaca, a cultural, trading and religious center for 14 centuries.

2,000 years ago, perhaps the grandest pyramids, below, were built in Teotihuacán in central Mexico, reflecting an ancient empire with influence over most of modern Mexico for seven centuries. After it fell, a smaller set of pyramids continued many of the same traditions in central Mexican for six more centuries at Xochicalco. And trade continued, even to the far north as seen at Paquimé, 1150-1350.

The Aztecs built and ruled Tenochtitlan between 1375-1521, and the ruins of the Templo Mayor can be seen under the foundations of Mexico City and the network of canals and lakes seen at Xochimilco. Before its downfall, this city was larger than London or Paris.

As you can tell, many of the pre-Hispanic pyramid empires co-existed on the gulf coast in Veracruz, the highlands of Oaxaca, the Yucatán peninsula and the center of Mexico. These civilizations created sophisticated calendars, used math (based on 20), made detailed observations of the stars, constructed great pyramids engineered to reflect sounds, light, follow the seasons and align with the stars. The four Papantla fliers each spin 13 times, representing the four seasons in 52 revolutions. These civilizations preserved their heritage in traditions and their history in both images and their written script. They traded goods, practiced medicine, built roads, maintained diplomatic relations and held public games, as in contemporaneous Rome.

We still know little about these pyramid builders, as many of the hierarchical societies collapsed. Apparently lacking draft animals, with limited useful applications of the wheel, and without advanced metallurgy, it is difficult to imagine how they built their grand markets and pyramids. The pre-Hispanic empires also went to war, took prisoners and engaged in brutal human sacrifice, often on a large scale. And our knowledge of even the surviving cultures is also very limited, as their religious beliefs, their temples and much of their culture was destroyed by the Spanish and diseases brought from the old world. Not all ancient culture was destroyed—the Huichol still practice their beliefs that date back over 1,500 years—, and many pre-Hispanic traditions survived conquest and forced assimilation to continue today.

Exploring the ancient pyramids of Mexico is a thrilling glimpse into our mysterious past.

Historic Center of Mexico City

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In the US, the Independence War means the same as the Revolutionary War, but in Mexico, they are two different wars. 100 years after Hidalgo cried out for Independence from Spain in 1810, the country was under the control of the dictator Porfirio Díaz, who ruled for 35 years over a growing gap between the elites and the masses. He commissioned the ostentatious building above to celebrate his rule, but it ended up celebrating the end of his rule after the Revolution of 1910-1920. Since the common people were uneducated, the new era of called for artists to paint huge public murals to tell the story of Mexico. The three great muralists were Diego Rivera, David Alfaro Siqueiros and Jose Clemente Orozco. All three have murals on permanent exhibit on the oversized second floor inside. Siqueiros uses stunning, clear images to depict the drama of human suffering and bondage. Orozco contrasts vivid lives with cold modern weapons. And Diego Rivera presents his profound understanding of social struggle, using historic figures, ancient images and modern allegories, to awaken people.

The historic center includes far more than one museum, but to appreciate it, you need to understand what’s buried beneath the metropolitan cathedral, grand government buildings and the huge public square. Once there was a lake ringed by volcanoes, and the Aztecs built an empire around an island, using landfill and bridges to create a moated city. Thousands of captured warriors were sacrificed publicly and walls of skulls have been uncovered. From this easily defended base, rich with food grown on floating gardens such as at Xochimilco, over 200,000 lived here, with a sophisticated canal system and extensive trading network. When Hernán Cortés arrived here in 1519, it was one of the largest cities in the world. After building boats and bringing in cannon, the besieged city fell, and the Spanish drained the lake, tore down the temples to make a cathedral, and paved the ruins of the temples and markets to make the huge, empty square Zócalo public space, where over 100,000 now gather to hear the President speak from the balcony of the National Palace or to listen to pop music stars perform. Begin in the Zócalo and take the walking tour to learn about the excavated Aztec ruins and much more in this fascinating, important and historic city center.

Xochimilco

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This is only half of a World Heritage Site, Mexico City, even though it’s on the outskirts. Frankly it’s status is controversial. To the extent that it preserves the long cultural history of floating gardens and canals, then it deserves global recognition. Unfortunately, it’s also known as a place to get drunk with friends over the weekend on one of the colorful boats above. And the city has encroached on the area, overbuilding, developing, squatting, polluting and diverting the water. So, it’s at risk. Really the damage was mostly due to the Spanish who drained the lake to build a new city over the old Aztec city, so this is one of the few places directly linked to the extensive ancient Aztec canoe and irrigation canals. A few parts are preserved, some are threatened and many are gone. Restoration is difficult and expensive, but worth it in my view.