Smith Falls above is the largest waterfall in Nebraska, and it makes a good picnic stop when floating down river. I got a ride with Little Outlaw from Brewer Bridge up to Fort Niobrara and kayaked back. Most people start at Berry Bridge and just float down on giant tubes ‘lazy river’ style, but they miss the pretty part at the beginning. I suppose the nature reserve doesn’t allow alcohol, so that may explain it. Either way, it’s very pleasant, with thick grassy banks, high bluffs, a couple of Great Blue Heron, several smaller waterfalls and no boat engines.

The interesting little town of Valentine is a decent base, with the small visitor center and places to stay. It’s in a well known Dark Sky county, which makes sense since the area is remote & peaceful. There’s a large nature reserve to the south, where I spotted a bald eagle but no bison. With all the space, they should have even more wildlife areas. Somewhere downriver were likely hideouts of bank robbers Frank & Jesse James. There are a number of reservations in the area, especially in South Dakota. There are not many places to charge, so I had to plan and drive a little slower than usual. Be sure to try a Runza—meat pie/ sandwich—if you see the local chain restaurant in one of the larger towns. I recommend mushroom Swiss.