Zacatecas

I’ve looked at Zacatecas from both sides now, from up and down, and still somehow I can’t believe this beautiful historic city doesn’t have more foreign tourists. I know the US State Department has the whole state of Zacatecas as ‘do not travel’, but the city of Zacatecas is safe, as even the State Department acknowledges—if you fly. Well, I don’t fly, so I drove the short toll highway from neighboring Aguascalientes without any trouble, and I passed a tour bus from Mexico City. Plenty of Mexican tourists were enjoying the world class art museums, the UNESCO world heritage designated historic center and more.

I think the city is at least on par with Guanajuato, with similar features including a silver mine tour, a teleférico (much better than a funicular), historic places, and lots of museums. Perhaps due to silver wealth, both cities had battles for both Independence and Revolution, with Zacatecas’ hill above being the site of Pancho Villa’s decisive victory.

But, especially due to the lack of foreign tourists, walking around feels much more like travel was decades ago, with that immersion into a centuries old Spanish style neighborhood with local culture but without distractions. I enjoyed the low price hotel with a fabulous location, inexpensive delicious local food, and uncrowded galleries and shops with reasonably priced handmade local crafts. At Eden Mine, they even provided a personal English speaking guide for no extra cost (Alan got a decent tip though). In the photo above on the far left you can see the teleférico from where I took the photo below looking back down at where I took the photo above.

Zacatecas is my favorite city to visit in Mexico. Here are my road trips to Baja and to Mexico City.

New River Gorge National Park & Preserve

The bridge over the gorge is huge; it’s one of the highest in the world and the largest single arch bridge in the western hemisphere. I took some nice pictures of it, when I drove the old Fayetteville Station Road and crossed on the old one lane bridge. Some of the commercial raft trips end there, and it’s fun to watch them take their last rapid. The most crowded part of the park is the Canyon Rim Visitor Center near the bridge, where many folks stop to have ice cream or picnic.

But the bridge is not the point of the park. The New River watershed is huge and very old. It starts in North Carolina near the Blue Ridge Parkway, includes the Bluestone and Gauley scenic rivers, and flows up to the Kanawha which is a major tributary into the Ohio River. The photo above shows folks fishing at Sandstone Falls, far upstream of the famous bridge. It’s a lovely spot with plenty of birds, an easy hike and a boardwalk.

The point is that the whole area was ruined by coal mining. This was the land of John Henry, if you know the old song about a railroad tunnel dug here. Now coal is more expensive than renewable energy, and many of the mines here have closed, becoming ‘exhibition mines’—fascinating tour in Beckley—, historic sites or slowly forgotten. A few coal trains still run through the gorge, but the park is now protected and recovering. Tourism generates more income and jobs now, and West Virginia is one of the most beautiful states in the US. The park is proof that we can change and improve. The point is that we can choose to save nature, instead of destroying it, and that it’s never too late to start trying.

Well every Monday morning
When the bluebirds begin to sing
You can hear John Henry a mile or more
You can hear John Henry’s hammer ring, Lord, Lord
 You can hear John Henry’s hammer ring

—A folk song

Here are my visits to all parks in West Virginia.