Best of the Rockies

Best Park: Yellowstone. Geysers, wildlife, recreation, lodges, forests, mountains, waters. Yellowstone is spectacular and the best park in many categories.

Best State: Utah. 5 stunning national parks—Arches, Bryce, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, Zion—plus 3 more best parks.

Best Ancient Native American Site: Mesa Verde.

Best Heritage Area: Sangre de Cristo.

Best Paddling: Grand Teton.

Best Place to Lose Yourself in Nature: Theodore Roosevelt.

Best Rangers (tie): Little Bighorn and Fort Union Trading Post.

Best Trail: Lewis & Clark.

Most At Risk: Glacier.

Most Heartbreaking (tie): Sand Creek Massacre and Big Hole Battlefield.

Read about all parks in the Rocky Mountain region.

Rocky Mountain Trails

8 trails cross the Rocky Mountain region, including 6 National Historic Trails and a National Geologic Trail that link multiple sites, plus the North Country National Scenic Trail that is an individual park unit. Here’s a quick summary in case you are interested in exploring the trails in the region.

Favorites from 400 Park Sites*

In 2022, I visited 200 national park units: see my first 100 favorites and my second 100 favorites.

In 2023, my total reached 300: third 100 favorites.

In 2024, my total reached 400 *including 3 extra types*—affiliates, heritage areas and trails—even though they aren’t official national park units. My official total is 385 (out of 433).

My earlier favorites mostly hold, with several important changes.

Yellowstone takes best national park from Theodore Roosevelt.

And, Yellowstone’s geysers also take best geologic feature from Arches/ Natural Bridges.

Best wildlife experience goes to Isle Royale from Great Smoky Mountains.

Best kayaking goes to Ozark NSR from Big Thicket.

And best trees splits into 3 categories: oldest Great Basin, largest Sequoia and tallest Redwood.

Here more of my fourth 100 favorites.

Best annual festival / fairytale: May Day at Amana Colonies in Silos & Smokestacks NHA.

Best place to follow Zane Grey: Rainbow Bridge below.

Best tea: Campobello.

Best trail: Pacific Crest NST.

Best trail stop: Mahaffie Santa Fe stagecoach ride.

Best waterfalls: Yosemite.

Favorite photo is above from Sangre de Cristo NHA: [strictly non-commercial use].

Mossiest hike: Olympic.

Most iconic park: Statue of Liberty.

International Peace Garden

What a beautiful place! A Canadian horticulturalist, Dr Henry Moore, deserves credit for the idea creating a peace garden—built during the Great Depression—on the Manitoba / North Dakota border. America has far more war memorials than parks devoted to peace. Chamizal on the Mexican border is dedicated to diplomacy, and Perry’s is both a war and peace memorial. As we begin a new year, we should not take peace and diplomacy for granted, given all we sacrificed in wars.

This affiliated park, a favorite of mine, is a neutral zone with the entrance between each country’s border security. You will need proper id either to continue on or to return to your home country after your visit here. The park is not far from the small town of Rugby North Dakota, which is the geographic center of North America. It’s a bit of a trek from the nearest US supercharger in Grand Forks, but there are a couple car dealers on the way that offer CCS charging if you have the adapter. Also, the park itself has a free electric 1772 car charger at the drop off entrance to the Conservatory, which has a massive collection of succulents donated by local enthusiasts.

Technically I missed the peak season, but as you can see above, there were plenty of flowers still in bloom at the end of September. There’s a long winding drive through the woods with lakeside picnic grounds below, a campground and a few cabins and more around the central border gardens. And if you walk the length of the formal garden above, the building at the end is the Peace Chapel, which is the perfect place to find inspiration and hope for peace in the quotes from famous leaders and philosophers carved inside its walls.

Rhode Island in Photos

[Sorry for not following the alternate Saturdays posting schedule this week, but Rhode Island is such a small state that it slipped through my rigorous editing process. Enjoy the bonus state photo summary!]

The three parks above—Blackstone River Valley, Roger Williams and Touro Synagogue—are all in the Ocean State, as is part of the Washington-Rochambeau Revolutionary Route. The Blackstone River Valley National Heritage Corridor extends from Providence to Worcester in Massachusetts, and includes Slater’s Mill (pictured) in Pawtucket.

All Parks in North Atlantic, Zero Carbon

I recently completed visits to all national park units in New York and New England. Connecticut, New Hampshire, Rhode Island and Vermont each count only 1 unique park. Maine has 4, including the only National Park in the region. Massachusetts has 14, and New York has 21 unique park units, plus 2 shared with the Mid Atlantic region and 2 world heritage sites. The multi-region Appalachian and North Country scenic trails start/end in the region, and the New England scenic trail crosses Connecticut and Massachusetts. Follow the links for more, including affiliates, heritage areas and the Washington-Rochambeau Revolutionary Route.

Connecticut’s star is Weir Farm, a lovely historic artist home in a rural community. Coltsville is pending. Both heritage areas are shared with Massachusetts: Last Green Valley and Upper Housatonic. Three trails pass through Connecticut: Appalachian, New England and the Rochambeau Route.

Maine has Acadia National Park, France Perkins, Katahdin Woods & Waters, and Saint Croix Island. All four parks showcase the state’s pine woods, clear waters and scenic views, while Perkins celebrates the woman in charge of the New Deal and Saint Croix tells the story of the first French settlers. If you want to hear French spoken, you can visit the Acadian Culture partner village area in the far north, where I hiked as a boy. Mt Katahdin is also the northern terminus of the Appalachian Trail. The coastal area from Acadia to Saint Croix Island is part of the Downeast Maine heritage area, including the bridge to Campobello in New Brunswick Canada.

All of Massachusetts’ parks are historic, even Boston Harbor Islands and Cape Cod seashore, where the Pilgrims landed. Boston, New Bedford Whaling, Salem Maritime and Saugus Ironworks all predate the Revolution. My hometown site of Minute Man focuses on the Revolution, and Adams, Boston African American, Longfellow-Washington, and Springfield Armory cover both the Independence War and later periods. Blackstone and Lowell cover the Industrial Revolution. And Olmsted and JFK cover more recent history. The Bay State also shares the Blackstone, Essex, Freedoms Way, Last Green Valley and Upper Housatonic heritage areas, the Appalachian and New England scenic trails and the end of the Rochambeau Route. If you love America, you must see its beginnings.

New Hampshire is home to the sculptor Augustus Saint-Gaudens’ studio and marvelous sculpture garden. Freedoms Way heritage area is shared with Massachusetts, and the Appalachian Trail crosses the state.

New York’s many historic sites begin with the Oneida portage at Fort Stanwix and the African Burial Ground in New Amsterdam (before the British captured the Dutch settlement and renamed it after the Duke of York). Federal Hall and St Paul’s Church illustrate the fight for freedoms that launched the Revolution. Fort Saratoga was a key turning point in that war. Hamilton Grange and Van Buren’s home reveal early American leaders. Castle Clinton and Governors Island preserve harbor forts. Harriett Tubman’s home in upstate New York teaches how she guided slaves to freedom and led a daring raid during the Civil War. Grant’s Memorial honors his service to our country as both general and president. Three sites are devoted to Teddy Roosevelt: his birthplace, inaugural site and Sagamore Hill. Women’s Rights are honored in Seneca Falls and at Eleanor Roosevelt’s home in Hyde Park, near FDR’s home and their neighbor’s modest Vanderbilt Mansion. And last, but not least, the historic Stonewall Monument stands proudly in the city.

Also in New York, Fire Island seashore, Gateway Recreation (shared with New Jersey) and the Upper Delaware River (shared with Pennsylvania) all preserve nature. The Kate Mullany, Lower East Side Tenement and the Thomas Cole sites are great affiliates to visit. The Champlain Valley, Erie Canalway and Niagara Falls heritage areas have miles to explore. The Appalachian hiking trail, John Smith Chesapeake water trail, North Country scenic trail and the Rochambeau Route pass here. New York also has the only world heritage sites in this region: Frank Lloyd Wright‘s Guggenheim and the Statue of Liberty.

Rhode Island protects our religious liberty at Roger Williams and affiliated Touro Synagogue, and the state preserves our mill town history at Blackstone, which extends into Massachusetts within a broader eponymous heritage area. The Rochambeau Route begins here.

Vermont is home to Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller experimental forest, not far from where the Appalachian and North Country scenic trails meet.

Gateway National Recreation Area

Gateway is multifaceted, but for me the most important part is the Jamaica Bay Wildlife Refuge above. Here there are migratory and year round birds, butterflies, trails, groves of trees and pleasant views. The contrast between the busy planes of JFK and the mute swans could not be more striking. Although the road noise limited my birdsong app, I still lost count at a dozen species. With more time, I would have kayaked around to see more birds.

But for folks interested in other things, the park includes Forts Hancock, Tilden & Wadsworth, beaches, parks and more, spread out over western Long Island, Staten Island and Sandy Hook peninsula in New Jersey. The Sandy Hook unit has miles of beautiful beaches (below with NYC skyline view) and paved bike trails to enjoy.