Before coming here, I wasn’t sure if this was an affiliate, a heritage area or a trail, but I thought a road trip along the NJ coast between Cape May and Sandy Hook, worthwhile. Cape May above is a lovely old town with Victorian style, boats and beaches. The Pine Barrens near Great Egg Harbor extend for miles. There are wildlife refuges, lighthouses, and historic sites, especially around the Battle of Monmouth, where Washington’s troops eked out a victory after training in Valley Forge. Locals freely admit that Seaside Heights is tacky, but much of the Jersey shore is both classy and trendy, especially in areas like Asbury Park. Technically, it turns out that this is a lapsed trail, that once partnered with the park service and was considered for heritage area status, which explains why it still appears as an obscure NPS site in a few places, but it is no longer authorized under the national park service. However, I’m glad my mistake and my curiosity about this area drove me here, and I enjoyed exploring this fascinating stretch of historic coast.
Jefferson is more controversial than his $2 bill, but like his nickel, you rely on his legacy every day.
Not only was he one of many who signed our Declaration of Independence in Philadelphia, but Jefferson was the primary author. Do you believe in freedom of religion? Jefferson ensured that Roger Williams’ ideas were enshrined in our laws, writing that “no man shall be compelled to frequent or support any religious ministry or shall otherwise suffer on account of his religious beliefs, but all men shall be free to profess and by argument maintain, their opinions in matters of religion.” His words are etched in granite in the Jefferson Memorial above in DC.
Jefferson was our second Ambassador to France after fellow inventor Franklin, the first Secretary of State, the second Vice President to his friend and rival John Adams, and friend of revolutionary patriots like Kosciuszko, Lafayette and Patrick Henry. Jefferson first engaged Dolley Madison as official hostess at the White House. Jefferson designed Monticello—below and on the back of the nickel—which is now a World Heritage Site that includes the University of Virginia, which he also designed.
But Jefferson will forever be remembered for his failure to apply his ideal that “all men are created equal” to all men including Native Americans and slaves. While he wrote that slavery was despotism, that slaves should be free and both admired and learned from Native Americans, Jefferson perpetuated both slavery and forced native removal, believing that their fated freedoms should be left to future generations to fulfill. Jefferson supported nullification—the supposed right of states to disclaim laws they did not like—, and such failures are why traitors like Jefferson Davis were named after him, and such failures forever defame Thomas Jefferson’s historic reputation.
Patrick Henry Jolly, a direct descendant of his namesake, greeted me at Red Hill (one of my favorite affiliate sites, above), where his ancestor is buried on a 1,000 acre estate in Virginia. We discussed Jefferson, a man infamous for his many long, bitter personal grudges, and I learned that Jefferson called Henry “the greatest orator that ever lived”. Speaking to Daniel Webster, a well known orator himself, Jefferson described Henry’s gift as being almost magical, delighting and moving him, even when he spoke in opposition to Jefferson, and yet Jefferson, a genius, thought, “what the devil has he said?”
Henry has been described by biographers as the Prophet or Voice of the Revolution, but the title that strikes me is Demosthenes, the greatest orator of Ancient Greece. Ogilvy, the father of modern advertising, wrote, “When Aeschines spoke, they said, ‘How well he speaks.’ But when Demosthenes spoke, they said, ‘Let us march against Philip’”. You may have heard a mistaken version of this quote with the Roman Cicero as Demosthenes’ rhetorical rival, but, of course, Cicero lived hundreds of years after Demosthenes, and attributed some of his success to adopting Demosthenes’ techniques and phrases. Patrick Henry, through his spoken words, ignited the hearts of our country’s founders to declare independence, prepare for war and give their lives and sacred honor for the cause of liberty against tyranny. And they recognized him for it contemporaneously. Jefferson said that “no man was as well suited for the times”, that he didn’t know what they would have done without Henry, and that he was “far before all in maintaining the spirit of the revolution.”
Of course, Henry accomplished much in his own right, including supporting George Rogers Clark and being elected Governor of Virginia five times. But it his speeches with many lines that still resonate today, especially his most famous speech 250 years ago—as a slave owner speaking to fellow slave owners—boldly stealing and reimagining a line from the play Cato, A Tragedy, that make Henry immortal. With Jefferson and Washington listening attentively, Henry convinced the Virginia Convention to fund troops in anticipation of the Revolutionary War, punctuating the final line by dramatically plunging his (blunt) letter opener against his chest. The letter opener was preserved by Patrick Henry Jolly’s family and is now on display at Red Hill.
“Is life so dear, or peace so sweet, as to be purchased at the price of chains and slavery? Forbid it, Almighty God! I know not what course others may take; but as for me, give me liberty or give me death!”
His large marble statue sits in a marble rotunda at the Franklin Institute in Philadelphia, a private museum that promotes science, making this an affiliate site. This 20 foot statue was made in the ‘30s by Fraser, sits on an imposing pedestal, in a room modeled after the Pantheon in Rome. There’s an expensive new light display, which accounts for Ben’s odd pallor, and there are some quotes. The memorial is free, as is parking for a short time.
Franklin’s print shop and post office are 2 miles away in Franklin Court—as is the recommended Benjamin Franklin Museum—, which is part of Independence National Historical Park. There’s also an older, well known bronze statue of Franklin at U Penn, which he founded. He also founded the colonies’ first successful public lending library, first public hospital, and first insurance company. Franklin was Governor of Pennsylvania and led the state’s abolitionist society. He helped draft the Articles of Confederation, the Declaration of Independence, the Treaty of Paris, and the Constitution. He was an author, printer, inventor, scientist, musician, diplomat and founder, when he wasn’t busy doing other things. We will never see the likes of him again.
George Washington is remembered in countless places across the country, and there are 24 national park units and 2 affiliate sites that tell his story. Washington was born on a huge 4th generation family estate in Virginia on 22 February 1732. Among many skills, he was a licensed surveyor. The GW Parkway, the Potomac Heritage Trail, the C&O Canal, and the Natural Bridge are all comprised of lands he surveyed, planned development and in many cases owned.
Washington’s land-acquiring family was known to the Iroquois and Susquehannock, and the French met Washington as a colonial military representative in Pennsylvania. When the French and Indian War broke out, Washington was in the heart of it battling at his Fort Necessity. After that war, he married Martha Custis and settled at Mount Vernon. (Mount Vernon is privately owned, but the NPS protects the view across the river).
When our war broke out with England, Washington traveled to Philadelphia, where he accepted John Adams’ nomination to be commander-in-chief of the rebel colonies’ new army. Washington set up his HQ outside Boston, driving out the British. Washington ordered the creation of the Springfield Armory to supply guns, ordered cannon from Hopewell Furnace, and rebuilt strategic forts, such as Fort Stanwix. While the British navy loomed over New York City, state fortifications designed by Kosciuszko helped protect the city and would later block the pass at Saratoga. Still Washington was forced to retreat from the city, with hope for independence in tatters.
Surprising everyone on Christmas Night 1776, Washington crossed the Delaware and conducted a devastating raid on Hessian mercenaries. Setting up his HQ in Morristown and training troops in Valley Forge, everyone’s eyes were on the expected attempt to retake New York City. But Washington again surprised everyone, quick marched south and with the help of Rochambeau, defeated Cornwallis at Yorktown. The full story of the Revolutionary War is here.
After the war, Washington presided over the Constitutional Congress in Philadelphia and was elected our first President, taking his oath of office at Federal Hall in New York. The first presidency was challenging, including handling the Whiskey Rebellion with the help of Hamilton. Jefferson vehemently opposed Hamilton, sparking a two party model that continues today. Washington agreed with Jefferson on religious freedom, as evidenced by his visit and letters to Touro Synagogue.
Unfortunately, Washington refused to use his power to end slavery. Washington had initially opposed black people joining the Continental Army and had tried to reclaim one of his slaves—Oney Judge—who escaped from his presidential home in Philadelphia, but he freed his slaves in his will. Ironically, it was a slave named Selina Gray, descended from Martha Washington’s slaves, who saved many of Washington’s most precious artifacts during the Civil War.
Amid countless places named after George Washington, the Washington Monument on the National Mall stands alone, the tallest stone structure, tallest obelisk and tallest monumental column in the world. And George Washington’s face is carved into the sacred Black Hills at Mount Rushmore. No other president is as well memorialized by our national parks as our first.
George Washington surveyed it in 1750, and Thomas Jefferson bought the largest limestone arch in North America above in 1774. At 200’ tall, it’s higher than Niagara Falls. See if you can find the people in the photo. It’s an NPS affiliate, managed by Virginia State Parks. There’s a pretty 1.7 mile trail up under and past the arch along Cedar Creek, with many steps, interesting rock formations, heron below, woodpeckers, chickadees and other birds.
Best Park in the southwest: Big Bend NP in Texas. It has canyons, hiking, rivers, wildlife, views and it takes at least 2-3 days to see it properly. But go around winter, as it’s becoming dangerously hot much of the year.
Best State in the southwest: New Mexico. Some of the best natural wonders and native cultural sites in the country.
Best Culture: New Orleans Jazz NHP. Get the ranger to play some of Louis Armstrong’s old trumpet recordings. And then go out, explore, eat, drink and find some live music.
Best National Trail: Butterfield Overland Stage. Although it only ran for a few years, it cuts near the Mexican border through many fascinating historic sites.
Best Native Ruins/ Sacred Sites: Chaco Culture. Tough to get to. Unforgettable.
Best Paddling: Big Thicket. Slalom your kayak through the swamp. Glorious!
Best Recreation: Hot Springs NP. Take a hike or go shopping, if you like, but try to find a place to soak in the old style. Relax and enjoy!
Best Wildlife: Padre Island NS. Hike or better paddle along the shores and count the different species of birds.
Best World Heritage Site: Taos Pueblo. One of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the US.
Smoke Hole above is a canyon formed by the South Fork of the Potomac River in West Virginia. Excursion trains take visitors on various trips through the area, but there are also country roads. I drove about 10 miles along the canyon admiring the views with fall foliage, and I never saw another person. The C&O Canal and Potomac Heritage NST are also in this NHA, which extends into the mountains of western Maryland. This is a rare, beautiful, underrated spot in the US to hike and enjoy nature.
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