Favorites from All 508 Sites in 48 States

Late this year, I visited my 395th park site, earning a rare park stamps award for all official NPS sites in the 48 contiguous states (see map). Plus I drove my EV to 29 NPS affiliates, 60 heritage areas, and 24 national trails (not on map). Read about my favorite sites below.

Screenshot of my NPS unit Visitation Map from the National Park Travelers Club website.

Best’ is subjective, as it depends so much on your individual taste and experience. If you are lucky enough to have great weather, a lucky wildlife sighting, or an inspiring ranger-led tour, that day will be one of your favorites. Click on the links to read my past favorites from 100, 200, and 300 park units visited, and here are favorites from 400 park sites, including affiliates, heritage areas and trails. I have no changes to my previous favorite park units, but I have a few additions.

Best Civil Rights Affiliate: Robert Russa Moton Museum.

Best Flightseeing Tour: Dry Tortugas.

Best Garden: International Peace Garden.

Best Handshake: Red Hill.

Best National Heritage Area: Muscle Shoals.

Best Paddling Tour: Channel Islands.

Best Partner Site: Acadian Village.

Best Revolutionary War Affiliate: Camden.

Most Demolished Since My Tour: White House.

Most Hauntingly Evocative Past: Cumberland Island.

Most Irrevocably Damaged by Climate Change: Biscayne.

Best of the North Atlantic

Best Park: Acadia. Wildlife, wilderness, views, varied hiking, boating, camping, forests, mountains, waters. Acadia National Park, above, is the only National Park in the region, the best North Atlantic park in many categories, plus proximity to fresh lobster rolls.

Best State: Massachusetts. Oh, sure, New York has more sites overall, more presidential sites, more historic sites, more Civil Rights sites, more recreation areas, plus 2 world heritage sites, but Massachusetts is still better. Just like the Red Sox are better than the Yankees.

The North Atlantic specializes in history, exemplified by these best-in-class parks.

Best Affiliate: Touro Synagogue.

Best Art: Saint Gaudens.

Best Bicycling: Cape Cod.

Best Forest: Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller.

Best Heritage Area: Upper Housatonic.

Best Ranger: Women’s Rights.

Best Trail: Climb Mount Katahdin on the Appalachian Trail.

Best World Heritage Site: Statue of Liberty.

Hidden Gem: New Bedford Whaling.

Read more about all parks in the North Atlantic region.

Acadian Village

One of the finest historic sites in the country is Maine’s Acadian Village in the Acadian Culture area of Saint John Valley in the northern tip of the state, open from mid June to mid September 12-5pm. Over a dozen buildings were donated and moved here overlooking the river that marks the border with Canada. Due to a penchant for large families, the Catholic agricultural community grew quickly, and many descendants trace their roots back to the rough hewn wooden buildings gathered here. Nearby towns also preserve their Acadian heritage, and the area has a partnership with the national park service.

What makes the place special is that you can walk in each building, including an art gallery, a church, a dentist office, a barber shop and a one room schoolhouse, and, unlike, many historic sites, you can go upstairs too. The tour guide had called in sick, but I was happy to have the place to myself for a while. Many of the exhibits have tags explaining the provenance of each item, and I was able to open a trapdoor to see how water was collected by wooden pipes. Every room seems furnished with authentic pieces evoking the lives and stories of inhabitants long ago.

I have a very old memory of hiking along a railroad bed to an old station in a French speaking village up here, so I believe this area is a revisit for me. But now I come with knowledge of the Acadian or ‘Cajun’ diaspora from Nova Scotia to Louisiana and many other areas, having eaten buckwheat cakes in Quebec, and having danced to Zydeco in the Bayous down south. Evangeline, Longfellow’s epic poem about the 18th century expulsion of the Acadians, strikes me more deeply now that I have grown children. I also have a greater appreciation for the meticulous love required to assemble such a beautifully moving collection of memorabilia from a unique culture that still thrives today, albeit out of sight of those who deny our non-English heritage.

”Silently, one by one, in the infinite meadows of heaven,
Blossomed the lovely stars, the forget-me-nots of the angels.”

From Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s Evangeline: A Tale of Acadie

Frances Perkins National Monument

Mainers are tough. While other Americans talk incessantly, wear flashy clothes, and spend every day seeking attention, folks here say little, dress simple and get stuff done. It’s a pleasant sail from Boston to coastal Maine in the summer, downwind and northeasterly or ‘down east’ as the area became known. But the coast is rugged and dramatic, with rocky beaches, serious storms, cold winters and endless forests. Not the place for overly dramatic flights of fancy.

Perkins was tough too. Her family made bricks on their large piece of land overlooking the oyster farms on the Damariscotta River south of Newcastle—a “Slow Village” warns a road sign. An ancestor protested ‘taxation without representation’ and survived having his skull cracked by a ‘lobster back’ redcoat in return. Frances got an exceptional education, saw firsthand the social problems of her time, and buckled down to do the hard work of solving them.

She found social worker allies in alleys, witnessed the Triangle Shirtwaist Fire, learned the tough politics of Tammany Hall, reinvented herself to join the powerful and got stuff done. She worked on worker safety, health and poverty with two Governors of New York, and was singularly qualified when FDR asked her to be his Secretary of Labor. Frances Perkins was the architect and driving force behind his New Deal, including minimum wage and social security.

Perkins had practical training, the courage of her convictions and a moral authority to improve the lives of those in need, especially during the Great Depression. She did not seek the spotlight, but she wielded more power than any other woman in US history. Have you benefited from having drinking water & clean restrooms at work, a sprinkler system & fire escape, unemployment insurance, or not having to work weekends? Then you should remember and thank Frances Perkins.

Her Brick House family home isn’t open yet, but there are photos & exhibits in the barn. And the walk through the woods and meadow to the river is lovely. With this new park unit I re-complete the North Atlantic region and finish all park units the contiguous 48 states, until the next one is designated.

All Southeast Sites *

The southeast region has more park units (70) than any other region, and I have visited all the units—*except 6 in US Caribbean territories—including all the affiliates, heritage areas and trails in Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Kentucky, Mississippi, North Carolina, South Carolina and Tennessee. Given the large number of states and parks involved, the summary below is organized by theme.

Natural Areas

All of the National Parks in the southeast preserve natural areas, including the reef area of the Florida Keys from Biscayne to the Dry Tortugas, the lowlands of Congaree and the Everglades, the Great Smoky Mountains, and even underground at Mammoth Cave. Other park units, Canaveral, Cape Hatteras, Cape Lookout, Cumberland Island and the Gulf Islands, protect barrier islands. Big Cypress, Big South Fork, Chattahoochee River, Little River Canyon and Obed River all protect diverse riparian areas.

Pre Civil War

Ocmulgee Mounds, Russell Cave and Timucuan stretch back before history, but Horseshoe Bend covers a tragic event in Native American history. Several sites cover early colonial history, including Castillo de San Marcos, De Soto, and Forts Caroline, Frederica, Matanzas and Raleigh. Cowpens, Guilford Courthouse, Kings Mountain, Moores Creek and Ninety-Six cover the Revolution. Blue Ridge, Cumberland Gap, Lincoln Birthplace, Natchez HistoricParkwayTrace, and Pinckney, trace the path of history in the southeast, culminating in the war to abolish slavery.

Civil War and beyond

Andersonville, Brices Cross Roads, Camp Nelson, Chattanooga, Forts Donelson, Pulaski and Sumter, Kennesaw Mountain, Mill Springs, Shiloh, Stones River, Tupelo and Vicksburg are Civil War sites. Johnson, Reconstruction, and Tuskegee Institute cover post war struggles. Carter, Sandburg & Wright Brothers are historic highlights. Birmingham Civil Rights & Freedom Riders, Emmett Till, MLK, Medgar Evers, and Tuskegee Airmen reveal the continuing struggle for Civil Rights.

I learned more traveling in the southeast than any other region, as the area is so rich in history and culture. And the preserved natural areas include some of my favorite park experiences, from underwater and underground, to rivers and shores, and to wildlife experiences in mountain forests. And they can all be explored without traveling in a carbon-burning vehicle.

Moravian Church Settlements—Bethlehem

This is a model of the Gemeinhaus or community house of the Moravians in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, built between 1741 and 1743. The model is inside the original building, the largest 18th century log structure in continuous use in the US. There are several Moravian buildings from the same period in the historic district in Bethlehem, including housing for men and women, a pump house—the first municipal water system in the US—, a chapel, and a tavern, and all are now recognized as part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site that includes similar Moravian sites in the Denmark, Germany and the UK. Their school buildings are now part of Moravian University here.

The Moravians, a Protestant sect that predated Martin Luther, originally came from Moravia, now the Czech Republic, but their prime benefactor was a Saxon (German), Count von Zinzendorf, so their Bible is in old, low German. They created settlements around the world in order to do Missionary work, and in Pennsylvania, they were famous for their hospitality, music and for their early efforts to learn Native American languages and hold peaceful conferences with both native and colonial leaders.

The Gemeinhaus was multifunctional, especially before other buildings were finished, and one use was as an inn. The knowledgeable docent led me into the large simple chapel on the second floor, a music room with various instruments that predate the famed Bach Choir of Bethlehem, and explained various exhibits with original items, including fine silk needlework, kitchen items and more. While many of the later buildings are still in use by the University and as housing, the core building’s remarkable preservation makes this is an exceptional way to step back over 250 years into colonial, and early American history. But also walk around the fascinating historic town, which includes an 18th century Native American house.

But my favorite building is the Sun Inn tavern from 1758, where George & Martha Washington stayed, Sam Adams drank ale, and an impressively long list of revolutionaries met over many years. It seems likely to me that Ben Franklin would have met members of the Iroquois Confederacy here, along with Moravian translators, inspiring him to incorporate their ideas into his design of our US democracy which balanced the needs of both the states and the country. There’s no better way to experience history than to raise a glass to our founders in one of their favorite drinking establishments!

Southeast Trails

The southeast includes some of our oldest and most scenic trails, and the Florida NST, Natchez Trace NST and the Selma to Montgomery NHT are unique to the Southeast. Both Appalachian and Natchez Trace scenic trails are individual park units. Here’s a quick summary in case you are interested in exploring the trails in the region.

National Historic Trails

  • Lewis & Clark 1804-1806, runs along northern Kentucky, and they did some fossil hunting for Jefferson at Big Bone Lick.
  • Overmountain Victory celebrates the trail crossed by Patriots in 1780 to turn the war.
  • Selma to Montgomery has several fine exhibits at both ends and at a few stops along the way. Highly recommended.
  • Trail of Tears ~1830 to ~1850, Native Americans from all across the region were forcibly removed on this trail that crosses through most states in the region. There are numerous sites along the trail, including Little River Canyon.

National Scenic Trails

Best of the Mid-Atlantic

Best Park: Harpers Ferry. In a region known for great historic sites, Harpers Ferry is exceptional. At the confluence of the Potomac & Shenandoah Rivers, where the C&O Canal, Potomac Heritage and Appalachian NSTs all merge, scouted by Jefferson and taken by Grant, martyred by John Brown and lifted up by WEB Du Bois, this park is essential for Civil War and Civil Rights history.

Best National Park: New River Gorge, with whitewater rafting, scenery, wildlife, hiking and coal mining historic heritage, this gorgeous new national park is more vibrant and exciting than its beautiful 100 year old competitor, Shenandoah.

Best State: Virginia has many Civil War sites, presidential birthplaces, and many other important historic sites, including world heritage Monticello, plus scenic mountains, rivers, valleys and coast.

Best City: Philadelphia is chockablock full of history and museums, mostly in world heritage Independence NHP.

The Mid-Atlantic specializes in history, exemplified by these best-in-class parks.

Best Affiliate: Patrick Henry’s Red Hill

Best Anthem/ Flag: McHenry

Best Culture: Wolf Trap

Best Drive: Shenandoah

Best Heritage Area: Journey through Hallowed Ground from Monticello to Gettysburg

Best Wildlife: Assateague Island

Best World Heritage Site: Fallingwater

Favorite Hero: Clara Barton

Hidden Gem: Maggie L. Walker

Smallest Park: Koscuiszko, the smallest park in the country

Worst Civilian Tragedy: Johnstown

Read more about all parks in the Mid-Atlantic region.

This Blog

This blog is a creative exercise. The whole idea of trying to visit parks and world heritage sites by electric vehicle wasn’t suggested to me by anyone. Deciding what to write about and how to present it takes imagination, from what stories I decide to tell and which photos I choose to take and use.

Travel requires imagination. My itinerary has been anything but straight, as I often feel myself driven by curiosity, picking my spots by theme or asking ‘what if I try this way’. Even within parks, visitors must choose how to spend their time, so I often let my imagination take the lead. Should I bike, hike or kayak?

History requires imagination. How are places connected? More than once, I’ve asked whether or how one historic figure knew another and learned to piece together disparate parts of our American story. What was it like for natives, patriots, pioneers, and slaves? What were people thinking for history to unfold the way it did? What can we learn that informs our decisions today?

When I drive, I find my time full of thinking. The whole idea of dividing how we think into four distinct ways of thinking, each with different motives, techniques and goals, came to me while driving. New ideas require imagination, time, and a curious mix of concentration and inspiration, that I find on the road.

Most people, I fear, lack imagination. When in their comfort zone, they take in new information easily. But outside of that, they lack interest, and they resist new ideas, particularly challenging new perspectives or uncomfortable facts they never want to consider. Some are simply busy, preferring to delegate thinking to others who make it their business to tell people what to think.

But life requires imagination. Living well, especially in a diverse and rapidly changing world, requires curiosity, an open mind, empathy, and persistently trying to find your own way. Imagination can prepare you both to avoid problems and to take advantage of opportunities. Every day is a new kaleidoscopic puzzle we need to navigate through as best we can, and for that, imagination is our best friend.

Tennessee in Photos

Celebrating completing the Volunteer State!

Andrew Johnson NHS, Chickamauga & Chattanooga NMP (partly in Georgia), Fort Donelson NB (partly in Kentucky), Great Smoky Mountains NP & WHS (partly in North Carolina), Obed WSR, Shiloh NMP (partly in Mississippi), and Stones River NB are above. Big South Fork NRRA, Cumberland Gap NHP, Natchez Trace Parkway & National Scenic Trail, Overmountain Victory NHT, and Trail of Tears NHT are also partly in the state. Tennessee is an NHA dedicated to the Civil War, which includes the affiliate site, Parkers Cross Roads.