On the right is the Alhóndiga, an old grain exchange, which houses a history museum, has a stunning Morado mural, was stormed by Hidalgo during the Independence War, and was where the heads of Hidalgo, Allende, Aldama & Jiménez were later hung, one from each corner, including above, top right.

The old town center and churches are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, and the churches are particularly lavish, due to the rich silver mines in the hills around the city. There’s also a decadent theatre, built for the dictator Porfirio Díaz, who impoverished millions. The independence leaders would have been furious with the ostentatiously royal display.

I love the town, climbed the narrow alley stairs to see from above and also walked through a long dark tunnel to loop back to my car. Diego Rivera’s childhood home has been extended upwards to become an exceptional museum of his life and art. Highly recommended.