Overmountain Victory National Historic Trail

The trail stretches from Virginia, through a corner of Tennessee, south through North Carolina and into South Carolina at Cowpens and Kings Mountain (below). Revolutionary War re-enactors and enthusiasts follow parts of the trail on foot and by car annually, ever since some Boy Scouts walked the whole length in 1975. I’ve crisscrossed the area, and it’s beautiful country with whitewater rivers and some steep mountain slopes. Both the Appalachian Trail and the Blue Ridge Parkway cross and run along near the trail, and the Biltmore Estate is near the middle.

Many of the colonial settlers in the highlands here were descendants of Scots-Irish lowlanders, and their families still held grudges against the British, especially those who fought to extend the Empire by force. The British sent officers to the Carolinas to bribe and intimidate their subjects to remain loyal to the crown. They sent mercenaries, regular soldiers, and raised local militias to threaten settlers, particularly in the foothills. Their heavy-handed tactics provoked the Appalachian settlers. One particularly offensive leader was Major Patrick “Bulldog” Ferguson, who had ordered the bayonet slaughter of sleeping Patriot troops at Little Egg Harbor, NJ. He also designed the Ferguson rifle, a breach-loading rifle, and was wounded in the right arm in the Battle of Brandywine against General Washington, after which the British took Philadelphia.

The trail commemorates the pursuit of Ferguson’s army from north to south, by the citizen militias that rose up from Georgia, Tennessee, Virginia and the Carolinas against the overbearing British threat, culminating at Kings Mountain. Immediately before and after the events of the Overmountain Victory, the Patriots also won decisively at Musgrove Mill and Cowpens, respectively. These Appalachian Patriots turned the course of the Revolutionary War.

Normally, high ground is superior during fighting, but the ridge at Kings Mountain is steep, fairly straight and narrow. Once the patriots managed to get on both sides, the British became easy targets on top. Ferguson was shot off his horse, shot a young soldier asking him to surrender, and was finally shot multiple times and urinated upon before being buried in an unmarked grave where he lay. A headstone was later placed in the woods not far from the large monument at Kings Mountain below.

All Sites in Arizona, California & Nevada

While I can’t drive to Hawaii, I have visited all the other sites in the western region, including all the sites below and these national historic and scenic trails: Arizona NST, California Pioneer NHT, Juan Bautista de Anza & Old Spanish NHTs, Pacific Crest NST, and the Pony Express & Butterfield Overland NHTs.

Arizona

California

Nevada

Best of the Southwest

Best Park in the southwest: Big Bend NP in Texas. It has canyons, hiking, rivers, wildlife, views and it takes at least 2-3 days to see it properly. But go around winter, as it’s becoming dangerously hot much of the year.

Best State in the southwest: New Mexico. Some of the best natural wonders and native cultural sites in the country.

Best (and only) Affiliate Site: Oklahoma City Memorial.

Best Cave/ Most Bats: Carlsbad Caverns

Best Culture: New Orleans Jazz NHP. Get the ranger to play some of Louis Armstrong’s old trumpet recordings. And then go out, explore, eat, drink and find some live music.

Freak of Nature: White Sands

Most Haunting: Cane River Creole

Best Heritage Area: Atchafalaya. Deep in the bayou, learn the fascinating stories of the Cajuns!

Best Hiking: Gila Cliff Dwellings

Best Historic Site: Pecos NHP. Do both the Native American history and the Civil War battle tours.

Tallest Ladders: Bandelier

Best National Trail: Butterfield Overland Stage. Although it only ran for a few years, it cuts near the Mexican border through many fascinating historic sites.

Best Native Ruins/ Sacred Sites: Chaco Culture. Tough to get to. Unforgettable.

Best Paddling: Big Thicket. Slalom your kayak through the swamp. Glorious!

Best Recreation: Hot Springs NP. Take a hike or go shopping, if you like, but try to find a place to soak in the old style. Relax and enjoy!

Best Wildlife: Padre Island NS. Hike or better paddle along the shores and count the different species of birds.

Best World Heritage Site: Taos Pueblo. One of the oldest continuously inhabited places in the US.

Read more about my visits to all the parks in the southwest region. See my photos of Arkansas, Louisiana, New Mexico, Oklahoma and Texas.

Resolutions Old & New

Happy New Year! First, let’s check off my New Year’s resolutions for last year. 

* President Biden named a new National Monument in Maine in December, so I will go back in 2025.

For 2025, here are my New Year’s resolutions.

So I plan to cross the country again this year in my electric car, seeing National Parks from California to Florida, World Heritage Sites from Canada to Mexico, and various lesser known but still important small sites. Logistical challenges or new park designations (thanks Joe) may thwart my plans, but I resolve to do my best.

The posting schedule should continue unchanged all year. Mondays are site visits. Thursdays are typically viewpoints and summaries. And every other Saturday I plan to post a state photo summary. Thanks for following along!

New Mexico in Photos

Celebrating completion of all parks in the Land of Enchantment: Aztec Ruins, Bandelier, Capulin Volcano, Carlsbad Caverns NP, Chaco Culture, El Malpais, El Morro, Fort Union NM, Gila Cliff Dwellings, Los Alamos, Pecos NHP, Petroglyph, Salinas Pueblo Missions, Valles Caldera and White Sands NP. The Northern Rio Grande NHA is here, and the Butterfield Overland, El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro, Santa Fe and the Old Spanish trails all pass through too. There are also three World Heritage Sites, more than any other state: Carlsbad Caverns, Chaco Culture and Taos Pueblo. Enjoy!

Buffalo Bill and New Year’s Resolutions

Happy New Year! This injured bald eagle, Jade, resides at the Buffalo Bill Center of the West in Cody, Wyoming, which is also home to the museums of Annie Oakley & Buffalo Bill, Cody Firearms, Draper Natural History, Plains Indian & Whitney Western Art. While showmanship seems a bit silly to me, I love stories of exploration and adventure. My favorite museum was the Plains Indian, but there are enough exhibits to interest folks for days. While not an affiliated park or world heritage site, this is an exceptional place to visit in the American West. 

I’m feeling like a caged bird this winter, resting up at home and trying to figure out my next steps. Where can I go next? Great Lakes? Northeast? Florida? Alaska? Looking back, I visited over 1/2 of the US parks in 2022, including these favorites. Last year, I visited another 1/4 of the parks, including more favorites, and finished four regions: DC, Mid-Atlantic, Southwest and Rocky Mountain. Many of the remaining US parks are either difficult, expensive or impossible to reach in my electric car, so expect fewer US park visits this year and more world heritage sites. 

Every Monday I plan to post one visit to a world heritage, national park, or similarly important site. Doing so will require me to revisit every region, to go beyond the reach of superchargers, to cross borders and even travel by small boat. On Thursdays, I plan to post more eclectically on zero carbon travel, the climate crisis and related topics.

So, here are my top 3 New Year’s resolutions. 

  • Complete visits to American Concentration Camps
  • Visit World Heritage Sites in Mexico and Canada
  • Complete the North Atlantic & Midwest regions

Logistical challenges will undoubtedly upset some of my plans, but every visit is a new adventure. Thanks for reading, wish me luck and I wish you a Happy New Year! 

More Adventures This Year!

Happy New Year! Here’s an update: About ZCT. So much for the “only Fridays” posting idea. The photo is at Paradise Point County Park, just south of Santa Cruz, CA, where I visited with my kids around Christmas. I’ve got a few more posts from the southeast to catch up on, but I’ve now visited over 250 of the 423 national park units in every region in the US. To reach the next level, I need to concentrate on paddling, go back to Virginia, hit more of the big name parks and try to figure out how to drive my EV to Alaska.

— Ned

Poverty Point National Monument

Over three thousand years ago, Native Americans built something massive here with over five million man-hours of labor. I took the photo from the top of the largest bird-shaped mound built over 700 feet wide and 70 feet high. There are additional mounds in a north-south line as well as a series of three parallel ridges, forming an octagonal plaza 3/4 of a mile wide. Tools found here show that materials came from all over the greater Mississippi watershed. Artifacts show refined stonework, fired clay crafts, beads, and detailed figurines. Topography and excavation show signs of a quarry, dock, swales and a causeway, demonstrating sophisticated engineering techniques and planning for the Late Archaic. The north-south lines suggest calendar knowledge, perhaps for agriculture.

This park is another UNESCO World Heritage Site and is managed by Louisiana which charges a small fee, despite also being a NPS unit. I doubt many Americans are familiar with this site, which dates back to the Shang Dynasty in China, the first Dynasty of Babylon, the expansion of Egypt and the Ancient Greeks. Certainly it belittles the lie that the Native Americans never built anything.