Acadian Village

One of the finest historic sites in the country is Maine’s Acadian Village in the Acadian Culture area of Saint John Valley in the northern tip of the state, open from mid June to mid September 12-5pm. Over a dozen buildings were donated and moved here overlooking the river that marks the border with Canada. Due to a penchant for large families, the Catholic agricultural community grew quickly, and many descendants trace their roots back to the rough hewn wooden buildings gathered here. Nearby towns also preserve their Acadian heritage, and the area has a partnership with the national park service.

What makes the place special is that you can walk in each building, including an art gallery, a church, a dentist office, a barber shop and a one room schoolhouse, and, unlike, many historic sites, you can go upstairs too. The tour guide had called in sick, but I was happy to have the place to myself for a while. Many of the exhibits have tags explaining the provenance of each item, and I was able to open a trapdoor to see how water was collected by wooden pipes. Every room seems furnished with authentic pieces evoking the lives and stories of inhabitants long ago.

I have a very old memory of hiking along a railroad bed to an old station in a French speaking village up here, so I believe this area is a revisit for me. But now I come with knowledge of the Acadian or ‘Cajun’ diaspora from Nova Scotia to Louisiana and many other areas, having eaten buckwheat cakes in Quebec, and having danced to Zydeco in the Bayous down south. Evangeline, Longfellow’s epic poem about the 18th century expulsion of the Acadians, strikes me more deeply now that I have grown children. I also have a greater appreciation for the meticulous love required to assemble such a beautifully moving collection of memorabilia from a unique culture that still thrives today, albeit out of sight of those who deny our non-English heritage.

”Silently, one by one, in the infinite meadows of heaven,
Blossomed the lovely stars, the forget-me-nots of the angels.”

From Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s Evangeline: A Tale of Acadie

Historic District of Old Québec

Québec is my favorite city in North America. I love New Orleans, Philadelphia and San Francisco, but there’s a certain je ne sais quoi. Probably the food. UNESCO may have picked it as a World Heritage Site due to its history, architecture, culture, beauty, fortifications, statues, parks, narrow old streets, churches, magnificent vistas, harbor, citadel, Haute-ville, Basse-ville, museums, galleries, Parliament, battlefield, archaeological discoveries, and all the rest, but it’s really the food.

Although the funicular (above) is fun too, and the old shopping district is colorful, amidst several fine restaurants. There always seem to be festivals in all seasons, concerts, and other excuses to try something new to eat or drink. If you want to get out of the city, you can go to Île d’Orléans, by bridge from the north side of the Seaway. They have farms, berries, cheese, bakeries, jam, chocolatiers, wineries, cideries, sugar shacks with maple syrup treats, and a microbrewery. Basically, much of what you eat in Québec City is from the island. As much as I enjoy going around shops and stands there, I prefer leaving all the work to each restaurant’s wait and cook staff, so I order many different dishes and sample the best of everything. Bon appétit!

Louisiana in Photos

Celebrating the Pelican State! Below find a park visit photo each for Cane River Creole, Jean Lafitte, New Orleans Jazz and Poverty Point, which is also a World Heritage Site. (A tiny part of Vicksburg is also in Louisiana). This diverse, fascinating state also includes both the Atchafalaya and Cane River NHAs, as well as El Camino Real de las Tejas. I always enjoy traveling in Louisiana, especially the heavenly food, so go visit!

Washington-Rochambeau Revolutionary Route National Historic Trail

After the patriots defeated the British at Saratoga—thanks to Kosciuszko—, the French openly took our side against their rivals, sending a fleet with an army under the command of Lieutenant General Jean-Baptiste Donatien de Vimeur, Comte de Rochambeau. They landed in Newport, RI, but the British blocked their fleet from leaving. The troops camped in Providence, and then marched west, stopping in Cranston, RI, Lebanon & Hartford, CT, before eventually joining Washington’s army near White Plains, NY in the Hudson Valley. They camped together for the winter in Morristown, NJ. Then they marched south, past Washington’s early victories in Princeton and Trenton, NJ, before arriving to parade before Congress in Philadelphia.

From there, their plans became secret. Most expected the joint force to attack New York. But General Baron von Steuben had recommended using both land and sea forces to trap the British army in Virginia, and both Washington and Rochambeau agreed. They marched together through Wilmington, DE, to Maryland, where they split up. The French sent their fleet south from Newport, and the British sent their fleet from New York. But Rochambeau had picked Virginia to take advantage of a second French fleet arriving from the West Indies. Boats were also launched from the north end of the Chesapeake Bay to ferry French troops safely and quietly to Virginia. Washington’s troops quickly marched past his home in Virginia and through Fredericksburg—later a Civil War site—before joining his friend General Gilbert du Motier, Marquis de Lafayette, who knew nothing of the plan.

Lafayette had come to America at age 19 with his own funds to join Washington long before France did, and he fought bravely, winning crucial battles and getting wounded. He had returned to France to encourage them to attack England, was briefly arrested for disobeying the King, and returned to continue fighting. When the French finally sent troops, Lafayette recommended various aggressive plans to Rochambeau to retake New York, but Rochambeau was cautious and dismissive. Washington counseled patience and sent Lafayette south to Virginia to capture the traitor Benedict Arnold, whose victory on the American side at Saratoga ironically had convinced the French to ally with the Americans. Lafayette was frustrated at being sent so far from all the action, not knowing Washington had plans for the young general.

The British had invaded Virginia (second time), coming up from near Moore’s Creek in North Carolina, had taken Petersburg (also Civil War) that spring and under Benedict Arnold that summer had taken and burned Richmond (see Civil War). Cornwallis took command and decided to establish his base in Yorktown (again Civil War) on the coast. Arnold advised Cornwallis to move inland for safety, Cornwallis ignored the advice and sent Arnold to Connecticut, where he burned New London.

The French Chesapeake fleet landed their 9,000 troops at the York River to join Washington’s 9,000 troops on the peninsula and trap Cornwallis. The combined French fleets defeated and blocked the British fleet at the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay. Lafayette led the siege at Yorktown—with Alexander Hamilton leading a critical assault (see photo). Cornwallis, surrounded and cut off from relief or escape by sea, surrendered. We would not have won this critical battle of our Independence War without our French allies, especially their fleets, their siege tactics and the element of surprise. After the war ended 2 years later, the French sailed back from Boston. A worthy trail indeed.

Incidentally, Benedict Arnold fled to England after hearing about the surrender at Yorktown. Arnold, after failing to convince the British to keep fighting, became a pirate in the Caribbean, was captured by the French, bribed the guards to escape and was rewarded by the British with 15,000 acres near Ontario, Canada, where he died at 60.

For the record, the rock-paper-scissors game ‘Rochambeau’ is mis-transliterated from the Japanese ‘Jan-Ken-Pon’ game adapted from the 2200 year old Chinese game ‘Shoushiling’.

George Rogers Clark National Historical Park

Someone in Hollywood needs to tell this story, because I don’t think enough Americans know about the older brother of William Clark (of the Lewis & Clark Expedition) or how 150 men took the territory that became Illinois, Indiana, Ohio, Minnesota, and Wisconsin. It’s one of my favorites.

The Revolutionary War in this area between the northern Mississippi and Ohio rivers was sort of a rematch of the French & Indian War. The French wanted revenge against the British, so they sided with the American colonists. The British were paying Native American mercenaries to fight for them, even though the natives were on the French side before. And the American colonists had antagonized the natives by taking their lands.

Clark was 19 when he started surveying the territory west of Virginia and joined the militia just before the war started in Concord, Massachusetts. Although young, he knew the area, the tribes, the conflicts and he showed initiative. He negotiated a territorial dispute with Governor Patrick Henry, representing settlers like Daniel Boone. He led Kentucky militia to defend settlements against British-funded native raids. So when the fighting broke out, he presented a bold plan to seize three British outposts in what’s now southern Illinois. Governor Henry approved the plan, gave him a promotion, but little else.

For the rest of the story, you have to watch the park film, or read a book or wait for the Hollywood blockbuster. But let me just say it involves many French settlers who help Clark, an Italian merchant who tells Clark when the British are vulnerable, Native Americans who decide to stay out of the conflict, a brutal winter march through floods, Kentucky sharpshooters, much military deception, and a desperate pre-emptive strike against a superior defensive force.

Whatever Clark did in the rest of his life to die an impoverished alcoholic, should not take away from what he accomplished at age 26: an incredible underdog victory by 150 men, whom Clark convinced to fight and trained, resulting in five states ceded by Britain to the US. (I had neither graduated from college nor gotten my drivers license by age 26.)

Ste. Geneviève National Historical Park

Beautiful new park with many buildings dating back to 1785, and an active community of French cultural preservationists. There even seems to be a bit of friendly rivalry between the park service and the French living history museum folks. As the economy moved elsewhere, the town avoided development and kept their unique culture intact. There are three tours: a tavern, a French Don American (long story) governor’s house and a former slave’s house. Together they weave a fascinating story of a French settlement halfway between Quebec City and New Orleans.