Cathedral

Historic Centre of Morelia

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I arrived at this World Heritage Site on Sunday late morning, and with a minor miracle I found parking one block from the cathedral above. When I stepped inside a beautiful mezzo-soprano voice echoed through the high ceilings and alcoves. What a spectacular and moving service!

The city and state are named after José Morelos, born a block behind the cathedral (now a museum), a priest in the cathedral, who answered the cry for independence and supported multi-racial equality. Morelos also demonstrated remarkable skill as a military strategist, and after Hidalgo was executed in 1811, Morelos became the leader of Mexican Independence. After dozens of victories that roused the insurgents, Morelos was eventually captured in Puebla, tried by the Inquisition, defrocked and executed near the end of 1815. He is remembered as one of Mexico’s founding fathers.

Puebla

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The city’s cathedral with its famed tall towers (above) is a primary reason UNESCO chose this city as a World Heritage Site. I spent a Sunday listening to bells, watching religious processions, and admiring many churches. But the whole historic district is marvelous! When Napoleon’s army tried to take the city in 1862, General Zaragoza defeated the French troops, earning recognition in the city’s official full name Heroica Puebla de Zaragoza. Of course, you already know about that victory, since we celebrate its anniversary on Cinco de Mayo.

While a pueblo is a town, Puebla refers to the Spanish settlers who founded the city between the port of Veracruz and Mexico City. The name comes from poblar (populate), so both people and peppers from Puebla are known as poblanos. Be sure to enjoy the poblano mole along with some local hard apple cider and other delicacies. The Ampara Museum is excellent, with a photo timeline showing civilization’s achievements by continent, beautiful artifacts, including a colorful Quetzal mural, rare and exquisite items from Teotihuacán, and a myriad collection illustrating the vibrant history of pre-colonial Mexico. There’s also a bullet-ridden house turned Museum of the Revolution after a 1910 dictatorial police raid. The zócalo, the green central square park next to the cathedral, is a perfect place to sit amidst the bustle and just soak up the atmosphere.