Boats

Pilgrims v. Puritans

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Recently I returned with my kids and my Mom (above right) to Duxbury in Massachusetts, where she grew up. Duxbury is a pretty seaside town with a large harbor on the north end of Plymouth Bay, reflecting the long history of our seafaring roots. When the Pilgrims arrived on the Mayflower in 1620, they first landed in Provincetown on the tip of Cape Cod, skirmished with the natives and then moved to Plymouth. The military commander, Miles Standish, settled in Duxbury, and his statue stands there atop a large viewing tower on Captain’s Hill. Longfellow wrote a romantic poem about a love triangle between Standish, the cooper John Alden and a recently orphaned teen named Priscilla Mullins. John and Priscilla Alden lived on the homestead above, which is still owned by their many descendants as a National Historic Landmark.

The Aldens were Pilgrims, not Puritans. The Pilgrims had separated from the Church of England, while the Puritans did not. Just before arriving in Plymouth to form a new colony, while awaiting royal permission, the Pilgrims and others aboard wrote an independent contract, the Mayflower Compact of 1620, which was the first self-governing document by British settlers in the now USA, although the British colony of Jamestowne was founded first. The Puritans arrived around 1630, settling in Boston and Salem. Contrary to the ‘mind your own business’ ethos of the Pilgrims, the Puritans were so strict that many left their colony for religious freedom. Such historic differences may seem inconsequential now, but freedom versus loyalty to England would become a big issue in Concord in 1775. And still today, there are conflicts between those who would impose their strict religious beliefs and those who prefer more freedom to make our own choices.

Driving back over the bridge from the beach, we got a glimpse of Miles Standish looking out over the harbor once famed for ship building and a large merchant fleet, before we went to dinner at a haunted restaurant, built before the Revolution. Moments like these improve our perspective, remembering the breathtaking leap of faith our ancestors took to settle here. While not part of the NPS, I recommend visiting the reconstructed living history museum in Plymouth, now called Plimoth Patuxet Museums, as well as other historic sites in the area like Alden House in Duxbury where we enjoyed an excellent tour.

Xochimilco

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This is only half of a World Heritage Site, Mexico City, even though it’s on the outskirts. Frankly it’s status is controversial. To the extent that it preserves the long cultural history of floating gardens and canals, then it deserves global recognition. Unfortunately, it’s also known as a place to get drunk with friends over the weekend on one of the colorful boats above. And the city has encroached on the area, overbuilding, developing, squatting, polluting and diverting the water. So, it’s at risk. Really the damage was mostly due to the Spanish who drained the lake to build a new city over the old Aztec city, so this is one of the few places directly linked to the extensive ancient Aztec canoe and irrigation canals. A few parts are preserved, some are threatened and many are gone. Restoration is difficult and expensive, but worth it in my view.

Glen Canyon National Recreation Area

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Like most people who travel through the crossroads of Page, I paid $10, walked 3/4 of a mile and took a picture of Horseshoe Bend. It’s an easy photo, especially around 2:30 pm, with the sun shining down over your left shoulder onto the deep oxbow canyon below. On a clear day the blue sky reflects in the river, and the height of the overlook makes a photo idiot-proof, easily framing the river bend from cliff to cliff and from horizon to bottom’s edge. Even I, a mediocre photographer at best, got the shot I dreamed about. But instead, I decided to show you the uglier view above.

“a curious ensemble of wonderful features
—carved walls, royal arches, glens, alcove gulches, mounds and monuments.
From which of these features shall we select a name?
We decide to call it Glen Canyon.”

John Wesley Powell, explorer

When John Wesley Powell first explored this canyon in 1869, he and his crew were amazed by the varied beauty of the place. Above all the impressive geologic features, they decided the best part of the canyon were the narrow green glens, teeming with specialized flowers, birds and animals. Less than 100 years later in 1963, the beautiful glens of Glen Canyon were drowned, and in a cruel irony, the temporary bathtub was named “Lake Powell” after the explorer & geologist who most loved the living glens.

In retrospect, Glen Canyon Dam should never have been built. Lake Powell, above the dam at right, is a sad collection of marooned boats with ramps and docks that don’t reach the water, so most of the fossil-fuel burning jet skis, power boats, fishing boats and houseboats can’t keep polluting here anymore. The “lake” is more of a stagnant segment of river with bleached canyon walls and a bathtub ring. Due to low water, neither the ferry at Hall’s Crossing nor the tour boats to Rainbow Bridge run anymore. When the water drops another 30 feet—later this year?—the massive hydroelectric towers above the dam to the left won’t have any electricity to deliver.

Engineers no doubt consider the dam to be a victim of its own success, drawing too many people to Arizona with cheap electricity and “plentiful” water. Economists likely consider the dam a fiasco, since all the expensive infrastructure is practically useless now, long before returning on the investment. Common sense says that dam or not, you can’t have your river and drink it too. Environmentalists, who opposed the dam from the beginning, say “we told you so”. Climate scientists say, “it’s going to get worse”.

After all the park is desert—mostly remote canyons in Utah—, and the river isn’t big enough for people to waste. I drive past a lot of busy car washes and gas stations with patches of grass, while the shiny vehicles burn carbon and diminish the mountain snowpack. On my way southeast, I drove through Gilbert, Chandler & Ocotillo neighborhoods near Phoenix. While riff-raff like me aren’t allowed past the walls, gates and guards, satellite maps show private golf courses, lakes, and homes on private islands, all in the desert. It’s tragic to see glimpses of all that water wasted, while our national recreation areas run dry.

San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park

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The photo above shows the park, but you’ll need to zoom in to see the following details left to right. The dock to the far left belongs to the Sea Scouts. The island to the left above the municipal pier is Alcatraz, part of the Golden Gate NRA. There are swimmers in the cold water between the small blue and red boats in Aquatic Cove. The three masted square rigger on the left is the Balclutha, and the three masted schooner on the right is the C. A. Thayer, both late 19th century cargo ships. Also on Hyde Street Pier is the Eureka, an old ferry boat recently restored, along with a number of smaller vessels, which are typically open for tours ($15). On weekends there’s a ranger led waterfront walk from the Argonaut Hotel near the pier entrance. Be sure to ask what it meant to get Shanghaied, how and where it allegedly happened, and why sailors were initially exempt from the 13th Amendment. On the far right, there’s an Art Deco style building resembling a ship outside, with murals and maritime exhibits inside. And above that is the sign for Ghirardelli Square (‘gear-a-deli’) which serves delectable old fashioned hot fudge sundaes, after you’ve explored the park.

Chesapeake and Ohio Canal National Historical Park

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The highlight of the canal has to be the tavern, lock and boat in Maryland across from the Great Falls Park in Virginia. It’s only a short walk here to a view of the falls from the ecologically important Olmsted Island, which was preserved by the son of the famous landscape architect. There are limited boat rides on Saturdays until mid October. Williamsport has a much more elaborate and functioning canal boat exhibit, but their rides are currently suspended. If time allows, I would like to come back next year to bike along the multi-state canal route.