Pimachiowin Aki

This 10,000+ square mile world heritage site in Manitoba and Ontario is over 100 miles from the nearest slow charger, and most of the road is unpaved and washboarded in some sections. That made the round trip challenging for my Tesla which no longer has the range it used to. I shouldn’t complain, as the all season road is less than 10 years old; before that, there was only an ice road. The site is both the largest protected boreal shield in North America and home to four First Nations, making it a rare dual natural and cultural UN site. Unless you hire a guide on some multi day paddling trip or stay at Loon Strait, there’s really no tourist infrastructure yet. If you want to try First Nation cuisine, I recommend Winnipeg. Still, I made it into the core area of this remote UNESCO heritage site and into the community of Bloodvein itself.

They were checking cars and ids at the gate, and they added a few questions about my travels. Just past the checkpoint I spotted a bear, and for once I managed to get a photo, above. I also saw many beaver lodges, but missed a picture of a beaver playing near a mud slide. A bald eagle flew over the Bloodvein River below, but as usual, I couldn’t get a decent picture of the majestic bird in flight. Still, three wildlife sightings in such a short visit is exceptional. I credit the First Nations community for protecting wildlife, as well as members. The road in town was very muddy that day, challenging my all wheel drive, and the coffee place was closed. On my way out, they didn’t seem impressed by my wildlife sightings, but they were interested in the range and cost to charge my car. Hopefully, visiting places like this in my EV gets more people thinking about how to lower their own carbon pollution to protect such beautiful natural areas.

Grand Portage National Monument

[Update: Blackwell National Historic Site in Texas is now officially a national park unit.]

The photo is from the moose exhibit upstairs at the visitor center. I failed to photograph a bald eagle flying right in front of the reconstructed fort, which includes a great hall, kitchen, warehouse, lookout and wooden palisade. The monument is surrounded by Anishinaabe (Ojibwe/Chippewa) land, and the tribe co-manages the unit, a first for the NPS. I stayed at the casino to catch an early ferry from Grand Portage, and I had a delicious ‘lunker’ (big fish) for dinner. From the dock, you can see Isle Royale in the distance, and there are various demonstrations of the fur trading life during the summer season.

Traders wanted access to the western rivers and lakes, and the easiest way to get there was to carry their canoes on the ~10 mile Grand Portage Trail around some impassable waterfalls (including Minnesota’s largest) on the Pigeon River at the border with Canada. At a site called Fort Charlotte, the voyageurs entered the Pigeon River—now the US-Canada border—and continued with shorter portages upstream on the Athabasca, English & Saskatchewan Rivers. They would pass through what’s now Voyageurs National Park, Rainy Lake, Lake of the Woods, and deep up into the Canadian Rockies to the Athabasca, Great Slave, and Winnipeg Lakes. The trail carried beaver and other pelts, typically trapped by natives, in 90 pound packs from inland Canada down to Montreal (skipping the polar bears around Hudson Bay), bound for global markets in Europe, Russia and China. Vast fortunes were made wiping out the abundance of our wildlife.