Women’s Rights National Historical Park

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Seneca Falls is a lovely town in the Finger Lakes region of New York, linked by canal to Lake Erie, Albany, New York and the St Lawrence Seaway. Frank Capra modeled his fictional town of Bedford Falls after here, and every Christmas they have events reminiscing about the make-believe story.

When the privileged Elizabeth Cady Stanton settled here with her Abolitionist lawyer husband, she found the real-life industrial mill town full of poor immigrant female laborers and found her own life filled with drudgery, taking care of her many children, while her husband’s career advanced. “How much I long to be free of housekeeping and children, so as to have time to think and read and write.” Starved of the intellectual community she had known in New York, Europe and Boston, she organized a ‘conversation club’ to discuss progressive social ideas, inviting Quakers like Lucretia Mott and Abolitionists like Frederick Douglass to her home above. One day, her friend Amelia Bloomer (who popularized the women’s pants) introduced Stanton to Susan B. Anthony, and together they changed history.

“It has been said that I forged the thunderbolts
and she fired them.”

Elizabeth C. Stanton of her co-author and friend Susan B. Anthony

At the Revolution, many women and people of color had the vote, which was determined by each state. Abigail Adams asked her husband to “remember the ladies” in 1776, but women’s rights were not included. The biggest barrier to voting was neither race nor gender, it was lack of property. White males disenfranchised others by taking control of land, businesses, marital assets, divorce settlements, bank accounts etc., and then requiring minimum amounts of property to vote. Then they started making gender discrimination official. In 1777, women in New York explicitly lost the right to vote. In 1780, Massachusetts women did too. In 1784, New Hampshire women were disenfranchised. When the Constitution was enacted in 1787, only New Jersey women kept the right to vote.

Native American women in upstate New York owned property and had other rights in their Haudenosaunee Confederacy. And African Americans also wanted voting rights. Elizabeth Stanton realized deeply what was happening in America: women were being systematically oppressed. She sought out allies among the Abolitionists, African Americans, Native Americans and immigrant activists, and they began organizing a movement. In London, her husband had been allowed to speak at the Anti-Slavery Convention, but the women were all excluded. In America, this new movement would be led by women. In 1848, at the Wesleyan Chapel, the First Women’s Rights Convention demanded equal rights, including the right to vote. And they began a campaign that continues to this day, from the American Woman Suffrage Association to the League of Women Voters. Many suffragettes went to prison to try to win rights for all women. The 19th Amendment finally passed in 1920, when the last holdout’s mother sent the Senator a telegram, causing him to flip.

The park unit does not do a good enough job of telling the story—with the notable exception of ranger Nicole above. On the plus side, the names and images of numerous women’s rights activists are presented, and many of the related issues are described in the text-heavy exhibits. Sojourner Truth demands inclusion for African American women, “I have borne 13 children, and seen them most all sold off to slavery, and when I cried out with my mother’s grief, none but Jesus hear me. And ain’t I a woman?” FEW Harper puts it well too, saying that white women “need to be lifted out of their airy nothings and selfishness.” There’s a single image of a women’s rights meeting that occurred in Persia (now Iran) one month before the convention here, with a quote from Táhirih, “You can kill me as soon as you like, but you cannot stop the emancipation of women.”

But the park film is no longer available, and replacing it “is difficult”. One of the largest photos shows a female African American military (ROTC?) recruit in front of a line of white uniformed men, without any information or ranger knowledge, thus forgetting the name and act of a woman who apparently broke both a gender and color barrier. More of the exhibits are about the Underground Railroad and fashion than to the right to vote. Frankly, I learned more about the direction and timeline of women’s voting rights from a small display in the parking lot of the XIX Cafe than from the official park exhibits. One of the local women described the whole park as “lame”. It took me two days walking all over town to piece together the story. It is frustrating to see such a missed opportunity to tell the story effectively about the extraordinary centuries long struggle for the basic rights of the majority of US citizens.

But go anyway. Ask to see the park film—they’re counting the number of people who complain. Ask how the history here relates to the loss of voting rights today. Ask about the Equal Rights Amendment. Ask about Lily Ledbetter. Ask about Trans rights and reproductive rights. Ask them to describe the Suffragettes who burned Wilson’s effigy in front of the White House. Make some noise, and don’t let manners hold you back. Don’t let this history die, or future generations will have to fight it all over again. The fight goes on!

Here are my visits to all parks in New York.

Theodore Roosevelt Inaugural National Historic Site

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This is a quirky little site. Even Teddy didn’t spend much time here. He arrived in response to McKinley’s assassination, left when told he would recover, returned upon hearing he would die, and was inaugurated in 30 minutes by a local judge.

One of Teddy’s first official acts here was to invite Booker T. Washington to the White House. Teddy was also famously friends with John Muir, and he also befriended activist Jane Addams—who eventually won a Nobel Peace Prize and deserves a park site of her own. You can tell a lot about a person by his friends.

There are only a handful of rooms to see, but there are interactive exhibits about the Pan American Expo—where McKinley was shot by an anarchist—issues of Teddy’s Presidency, his friends & advisors, his draft first speech, and the room above where he was sworn into office. The tour evokes the hasty events here well. And if you get hungry, there’s a bar down the street that claims to have invented Buffalo Wings.

Here are my visits to all parks in New York.

Fallingwater

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As you may be able to tell from the folks walking through my photo, Fallingwater is popular. There were tours for about a dozen each running every few minutes constantly. The house and 1500 acres were donated by the client’s son. The reserve is now 5,000 acres in rural Pennsylvania. I ate lunch at Polymath Park, about 45 minutes away, where they have four Wright homes, a Treetop restaurant and even let a few lucky folks spend the night.

This World Heritage site may be Wright’s greatest private home, his masterpiece of organic architecture. The multilevel home and guesthouse are built over the Bear Run Falls and into the rocky hillside. Several steps descend into the creek, and there are pools for swimming, for enjoying the creek and even for washing up. Unsurprisingly, the home has had some leaks, water and flood damage, but overall the waxed stone floors, stone walls and stucco covered steel reinforced cantilevered structures retain their stunning appearance. The many patios extend out over the water providing myriad views while adding to the modern exterior design.

The Kaufmanns owned Pittsburgh’s premier department store and welcomed employees here to play tennis, swim and enjoy nature. They also collected art, and much of their collection is still here, including an original from their friend Diego Rivera, who visited here with Frieda Kahlo. Much of the furniture is original and designed by Wright. Instead of abstract, complicated, multicolored glass window designs, Wright used plain glass windows, but in fascinating ways, especially by running the glass all the way to the corner from two sides without any corner support. From across the creek below the house, there is a stacked column of such windows running between floors, and each opens to provide an exquisite series of views that descend like the falls from the small upstairs room to the creek. Iconic.

Here are my visits to all Wright UN sites and all parks in Pennsylvania.

First Ladies National Historic Site

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Ida Saxton McKinley’s house above is managed by the site, and was preserved by a private foundation before the park service got involved. The tour is interesting, with some original artifacts, and the ranger did a good job of comparing this famous widowed first lady with Jackie Kennedy. While times change, the political importance of presenting a positive public image remains. 

The museum and visitor center a block away has rotating exhibits of the various First Ladies, and Nancy Reagan was on display. Jackie Kennedy’s display begins on May 2nd. Not sure why Michelle Obama’s poster has to be in the most difficult to find corner of the basement, but whatever. One of the park films was on fashion and power, and it did an excellent job of explaining the political power of First Ladies like Dolly Madison and Jackie Kennedy, who used White House events, interior design, fashion and adroit diplomacy to support their husbands’ administrations, often more effectively. 

Here are my visits to all parks in Ohio.

Cuyahoga Valley National Park

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Cleveland’s mayor, the first African American elected mayor of a major city, Carl Stokes, faced an environmental crisis. The Cuyahoga River, above, caught fire in 1969. And it wasn’t the first time. Mayor Stokes led journalists on a pollution tour and tied the issue to poor and underserved communities, many of color, which often suffered most. He led the fight for change.

In many ways, this park is a great example of what can be done, when we make the effort to restore nature. While interstate highways still cross over the park, they do so from extremely high bridges, separate from the deep valley below. Many tributary watersheds are protected by municipal and state parks and other reserves. Instead of removing the old railroad line along the river, there’s a classic old train line with restored historic whistle stops for hikers, bikers, and even kayakers to return after traveling through the park one way. An old inn on the canal has been repurposed as a museum. An old mill village is now a visitor center with a store selling drinks, sandwiches and ice cream (black raspberry chocolate chip is the best). The tow path, which both separated the canal from the river and provided a walkway for teams of oxen to pull barges, makes a perfect, nearly level, dry, packed gravel path for bikers, hikers and equestrians to travel for miles through the woods, admiring both wildlife and the beautiful scenery.

This is my favorite park for bicycling. I biked from Frazee House to Peninsula, above, about 20 miles round trip, in order to see some of the northern and middle sections where the path runs close to the river and far from the road. I saw both a Bald and a Golden Eagle, the first with the help of a park volunteer who let me look through his telescope. Brandywine Falls also surprised me by being larger than expected in Ohio, and the Ledges is another popular hike. I also hiked through Beaver Marsh at the southern end to look for more birds and watched a Great Blue Heron fishing for about an hour, among the geese, various ducks, redwing blackbirds, giant snapping turtles and other wildlife. Wonderful!

Here are my visits to all parks in Ohio.

Charles Young Buffalo Soldiers National Monument

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Charles Young’s father was born into slavery, escaped and joined an African American heavy artillery regiment in the Civil War. His mother and grandmother were also born into slavery but were educated and taught Charles as a boy.

Charles Young was the third African American West Point graduate to become an officer, and in 1901 he became the first African American Captain in the Army. Young was also the first African American superintendent of a National Park, Sequoia, and he eventually became the first African American Colonel in our Army.

The park here reflects the community in Wilberforce, which is the site of the first University owned and operated by African Americans. Young taught military tactics and how to be a soldier. The University also employed luminaries including WEB DuBois, voting rights activist Hallie Q. Brown, and the poet Paul L. Dunbar, all of whom enjoyed the hospitality and vibrant discussions held regularly at the Young family home, once a stop on the Underground Railroad. The Young house is still in the midst of extensive renovations, and there’s a small exhibit inside a nearby seminary library.

Young was an excellent officer, who overcame great prejudices during his interesting career, but the site is also dedicated to the many African Americans who served with him and after him. In the west, these soldiers were known as Buffalo Soldiers, due to their curly black hair, and their service is recognized at 20 different national parks, including Forts Bowie, Davis, Larned, Point, Union and Vancouver. Tragically, much of their service was against Native Americans.

Here are my visits to all parks in Ohio.

River Raisin National Battlefield Park

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The battlefields outside were long forgotten, covered by a paper mill and other modern uses, but this is a story that Americans must never forget. So the community came together to make sure we “Remember the Raisin”, correctly, completely and for our kids. The park opened in 2011, repurposing an underused ice rink, and built this longhouse and other exhibits and made the park film with the support and participation of local Native American tribes. My guide passionately explained how learning the history of his own backyard literally changed his life.

The War of 1812 was a mistake, which led to the burning of the White House and the Capitol. The US could have remained neutral as the French & British continued fighting, but instead we declared war on England without adequate preparations. The cause in the history I read was about trade relations and kidnapped sailors, but the real cause was Native American relations. The war was opposed by the ocean trading states in the northeast. Americans wanted to move west, despite the land being occupied by Natives, with treaty protections in many cases. Declaring war was popular among the western border states.

Indiana Governor Harrison destroyed a sacred Native American settlement called Prophetstown at Tippecanoe in 1811. The Americans committed atrocities there, including digging up corpses and scattering the remains. That caused the almost 20 tribes to ally with the British. When the war broke out just as the British were ready to be more conciliatory, the Americans took a French settlement on the River Raisin south of Detroit. Native Americans, with some support from British-Canadian troops, retook the village and killed a number of wounded Americans, in retaliation for Prophetstown.

Americans turned their large military losses into a recruiting tool with a big campaign to ‘Remember the Raisin’—which was followed by similar campaigns for the Alamo, the Maine, the Lusitania, Pearl Harbor and 9/11. When the new recruits arrived, the troops advanced and killed the Native leader Tecumseh. The British fled back to Canada. But for Native Americans, this was the beginning of a national military campaign to force them to Oklahoma and other reservations. Harrison was elected President after Jackson on an equally racist platform.

So it’s appropriate to start with the longhouse, the dugout canoes, maple syrup, corn meal and other Native exhibits, because this site is ground zero for US choosing policies of reneging on treaties, ignoring rights, forcing removal and waging asymmetrical war against the original inhabitants of our country.

Here are my visits to all parks in Michigan.

Indiana Dunes National Park

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100 years ago, Alice Gray chose to live in the dunes above for ten years, camping out, swimming nude, and eschewing the working life in Chicago, visible across the lake. She became known as ‘Diana of the Dunes’, and more than anyone else is responsible for the park. She protested the removal of the huge sand dunes for glass, industry and fill. She urged that the dunes be preserved in media interviews and at a speech to the Prairie Club.

“Besides its nearness to Chicago and its beauty, its spiritual power,
there is between the Dune Country and the city a more than sentimental bond—a family tie.
To see the Dunes destroyed would be for Chicago the sacrilegious sin which is not forgiven.”

Alice Mabel Gray, aka Diana of the Dunes, in 1917

The park comprises several sections, including a Heron Rookery, an Ice Age Bog, seven named beaches and a lake, besides the dunes themselves. There’s an eponymous state park within the bounds of the site. The ranger suggested that the 1 mile Dune Succession Trail which includes Diana’s Dunes above is the best in the park, but the attached 1 mile West Beach Loop Trail to Long Lake is worth taking too to see more birds. I saw well over a dozen species of birds, including the American Bittern, and there were turtles and evidence of beavers as well.

Unfortunately, sections of shoreline within the park are also taken by steel mills, power plants, train stations, and development. The hum of cars is constant and passing trains drown out the birdsong. A local dog-walker explained how many nests have been destroyed and how developers always seem to evade environmental restrictions. Once gone, these homes for wildlife will never return, given the fragile ecosystems and manmade pollution. Saving species means reserving more wetlands and restricting development, but everywhere I go, most folks seem more concerned with their lawns than the Climate Crisis.

Here are my visits to all parks in Indiana.

Pullman National Historical Park

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Railroads being perhaps the largest and most important industry in the land over 100 years ago, it was cheaper to buy the US Attorney General and easier to influence President Cleveland to send in troops than to reinstate wages for the 250,000 striking Pullman railroad workers. The leader of the strike, Eugene Debs, was thrown in jail and emerged as a Socialist. On the plus side, we got Labor Day.

The feudal administration building above was center to a huge company town, with dozens of blocks of row houses, hotels, cafes, wheelhouse, stable, church, hospital and fire station. The neighborhood has suffered more than its share of fires, including the right wing of the building above, but this new park is rebuilding and revitalizing this fascinating area. The Florence Hotel is still closed for restoration, and some of the partner museums are only on weekends in spring. There were some tours going on, but I found no information about them in the visitor center above. Walking the row houses is worth the effort, as many are still lived in and well-loved today.

Here are my visits to all parks in Illinois.

New Philadelphia National Historic Site

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‘Free’ Frank McWorter mined saltpeter as a slave, purchased first his wife’s, then his and ultimately 14 more family members’ freedom and founded this town with 12 dozen plots in 1836, the first African American registered & surveyed town in America. It was a mixed race community as Frank sold lots to all, and it became an important stop on the Underground Railroad. Fugitive slaves were assisted across the rivers, hidden in wagons and at least one basement and were even accompanied to Canada. Unfortunately, at the end of the 19th century the actual railroad bypassed the town in favor of a white town, so eventually folks moved away.

None of the early buildings survive, but there are a few old buildings built on their foundations, providing years of fun for archaeologists. There are a dozen or so signs explaining whether the plot belonged to the shoemaker, wheelwright, carpenter, seamstress, physician, teacher, merchant, cabinet maker, the blacksmith or the Post Office (above). Many of those tradespeople provided invaluable services to fugitive slaves. I wasn’t able to load the VR app which superimposes cartoon pioneers on your screen to help you visualize, but I was fine without. This brand new park is not in the completely uninteresting town of New Philadelphia, Illinois, an hour north, but it is about 30 miles east of the interesting town of Hannibal, MO.

On April 22nd, the park film was screened in Springfield, and, being a park nerd, I attended the gala park service premiere (cookies were served). Several members of the community responsible for gaining recognition for the site were there. The film was produced mainly by staff from the Lincoln Home. Just as Lincoln’s presence here attracted freedom-seekers, the folks here are broadening out understanding of history.

Here are my visits to all parks in Illinois.