Best of the North Atlantic

Best Park: Acadia. Wildlife, wilderness, views, varied hiking, boating, camping, forests, mountains, waters. Acadia National Park, above, is the only National Park in the region, the best North Atlantic park in many categories, plus proximity to fresh lobster rolls.

Best State: Massachusetts. Oh, sure, New York has more sites overall, more presidential sites, more historic sites, more Civil Rights sites, more recreation areas, plus 2 world heritage sites, but Massachusetts is still better. Just like the Red Sox are better than the Yankees.

The North Atlantic specializes in history, exemplified by these best-in-class parks.

Best Affiliate: Touro Synagogue.

Best Art: Saint Gaudens.

Best Bicycling: Cape Cod.

Best Forest: Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller.

Best Heritage Area: Upper Housatonic.

Best Ranger: Women’s Rights.

Best Trail: Climb Mount Katahdin on the Appalachian Trail.

Best World Heritage Site: Statue of Liberty.

Hidden Gem: New Bedford Whaling.

Read more about all parks in the North Atlantic region.

Acadian Village

One of the finest historic sites in the country is Maine’s Acadian Village in the Acadian Culture area of Saint John Valley in the northern tip of the state, open from mid June to mid September 12-5pm. Over a dozen buildings were donated and moved here overlooking the river that marks the border with Canada. Due to a penchant for large families, the Catholic agricultural community grew quickly, and many descendants trace their roots back to the rough hewn wooden buildings gathered here. Nearby towns also preserve their Acadian heritage, and the area has a partnership with the national park service.

What makes the place special is that you can walk in each building, including an art gallery, a church, a dentist office, a barber shop and a one room schoolhouse, and, unlike, many historic sites, you can go upstairs too. The tour guide had called in sick, but I was happy to have the place to myself for a while. Many of the exhibits have tags explaining the provenance of each item, and I was able to open a trapdoor to see how water was collected by wooden pipes. Every room seems furnished with authentic pieces evoking the lives and stories of inhabitants long ago.

I have a very old memory of hiking along a railroad bed to an old station in a French speaking village up here, so I believe this area is a revisit for me. But now I come with knowledge of the Acadian or ‘Cajun’ diaspora from Nova Scotia to Louisiana and many other areas, having eaten buckwheat cakes in Quebec, and having danced to Zydeco in the Bayous down south. Evangeline, Longfellow’s epic poem about the 18th century expulsion of the Acadians, strikes me more deeply now that I have grown children. I also have a greater appreciation for the meticulous love required to assemble such a beautifully moving collection of memorabilia from a unique culture that still thrives today, albeit out of sight of those who deny our non-English heritage.

”Silently, one by one, in the infinite meadows of heaven,
Blossomed the lovely stars, the forget-me-nots of the angels.”

From Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s Evangeline: A Tale of Acadie

Vermont in Photos

I’m wrapping up my park photos for each of the 48 contiguous states this year, just three left in New England, full of childhood memories. Like Connecticut & New Hampshire, Vermont has only one national park unit, Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller, a long-protected wooded area. Only one park photo, but the state is well worth celebrating. The Green Mountain State also has parts of the Appalachian and North Country trails and the Champlain Valley heritage area.

Frances Perkins National Monument

Mainers are tough. While other Americans talk incessantly, wear flashy clothes, and spend every day seeking attention, folks here say little, dress simple and get stuff done. It’s a pleasant sail from Boston to coastal Maine in the summer, downwind and northeasterly or ‘down east’ as the area became known. But the coast is rugged and dramatic, with rocky beaches, serious storms, cold winters and endless forests. Not the place for overly dramatic flights of fancy.

Perkins was tough too. Her family made bricks on their large piece of land overlooking the oyster farms on the Damariscotta River south of Newcastle—a “Slow Village” warns a road sign. An ancestor protested ‘taxation without representation’ and survived having his skull cracked by a ‘lobster back’ redcoat in return. Frances got an exceptional education, saw firsthand the social problems of her time, and buckled down to do the hard work of solving them.

She found social worker allies in alleys, witnessed the Triangle Shirtwaist Fire, learned the tough politics of Tammany Hall, reinvented herself to join the powerful and got stuff done. She worked on worker safety, health and poverty with two Governors of New York, and was singularly qualified when FDR asked her to be his Secretary of Labor. Frances Perkins was the architect and driving force behind his New Deal, including minimum wage and social security.

Perkins had practical training, the courage of her convictions and a moral authority to improve the lives of those in need, especially during the Great Depression. She did not seek the spotlight, but she wielded more power than any other woman in US history. Have you benefited from having drinking water & clean restrooms at work, a sprinkler system & fire escape, unemployment insurance, or not having to work weekends? Then you should remember and thank Frances Perkins.

Her Brick House family home isn’t open yet, but there are photos & exhibits in the barn. And the walk through the woods and meadow to the river is lovely. With this new park unit I re-complete the North Atlantic region and finish all park units the contiguous 48 states, until the next one is designated.

Best of the Mid-Atlantic

Best Park: Harpers Ferry. In a region known for great historic sites, Harpers Ferry is exceptional. At the confluence of the Potomac & Shenandoah Rivers, where the C&O Canal, Potomac Heritage and Appalachian NSTs all merge, scouted by Jefferson and taken by Grant, martyred by John Brown and lifted up by WEB Du Bois, this park is essential for Civil War and Civil Rights history.

Best National Park: New River Gorge, with whitewater rafting, scenery, wildlife, hiking and coal mining historic heritage, this gorgeous new national park is more vibrant and exciting than its beautiful 100 year old competitor, Shenandoah.

Best State: Virginia has many Civil War sites, presidential birthplaces, and many other important historic sites, including world heritage Monticello, plus scenic mountains, rivers, valleys and coast.

Best City: Philadelphia is chockablock full of history and museums, mostly in world heritage Independence NHP.

The Mid-Atlantic specializes in history, exemplified by these best-in-class parks.

Best Affiliate: Patrick Henry’s Red Hill

Best Anthem/ Flag: McHenry

Best Culture: Wolf Trap

Best Drive: Shenandoah

Best Heritage Area: Journey through Hallowed Ground from Monticello to Gettysburg

Best Wildlife: Assateague Island

Best World Heritage Site: Fallingwater

Favorite Hero: Clara Barton

Hidden Gem: Maggie L. Walker

Smallest Park: Koscuiszko, the smallest park in the country

Worst Civilian Tragedy: Johnstown

Read more about all parks in the Mid-Atlantic region.

North Atlantic Trails

The New England and New York region has 2 historic trails and 3 scenic park unit trails. Here’s a quick summary in case you are interested in exploring them.

Historic trails

Scenic trails

  • Appalachian the trail cuts the southeast corner of New York, the northwest corner of Connecticut, north across the western edge of Massachusetts, up along the Green Mountains of Vermont, where it turns east, passes by Marsh-Billings-Rockefeller, hikes over the White Mountains of New Hampshire, and ends at Mount Katahdin in Maine.
  • New England above crosses Connecticut and Massachusetts north to the edge of New Hampshire.
  • North Country cuts through New York near Fort Stanwix, crosses through the Champlain Valley and ends at the Appalachian Trail in Vermont.

Massachusetts in Photos

Happy Patriots Day! 250 years ago today in Concord folks first fired back against tyranny!

Celebrating completing the Bay State! Adams NHP, Boston NHP, Boston African American NHS, Boston Harbor Isles NRA, Cape Cod NS, JFK NHS, Longfellow NHS, Lowell NHP, Minute Man NHP, New Bedford Whaling NHP, Olmsted NHS, Salem Maritime NHS, Saugus Iron Works NHS, and Springfield Armory NHS are all above. Massachusetts also has a heritage area in Essex around Salem & Saugus, and shares Freedom’s Way from Minute Man into New Hampshire, Blackstone Valley with Rhode Island, and shares both the Last Green Valley NHC and the Upper Housatonic Valley NHA with Connecticut. Parts of the Appalachian NST, the New England NST, and Washington-Rochambeau Revolutionary Route are also in the Bay State.

Rhode Island in Photos

[Sorry for not following the alternate Saturdays posting schedule this week, but Rhode Island is such a small state that it slipped through my rigorous editing process. Enjoy the bonus state photo summary!]

The three parks above—Blackstone River Valley, Roger Williams and Touro Synagogue—are all in the Ocean State, as is part of the Washington-Rochambeau Revolutionary Route. The Blackstone River Valley National Heritage Corridor extends from Providence to Worcester in Massachusetts, and includes Slater’s Mill (pictured) in Pawtucket.