Culture

Amache National Historic Site

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President Biden authorized this new park in March, but it will take time to become fully established. The local community is important in determining whether a park is created, how it will happen and when. In this case, the local Granada High School has been working on preserving the history here for many years and is largely responsible for the reconstruction of the guard tower above.

As with Manzanar and Minidoka, the image of a guard tower evokes the reality of the imprisonment of Japanese-American citizens during WWII. Each of the towers surrounding Amache was manned with a machine gun and a spotlight. But inside the camps, it is often the Japanese cultural touches that strike me, the rock gardens in Manzanar and the silk screen shop here. The silk screen shop was so good, that the incarcerated citizens made posters for the US Navy. Despite their incarceration and wrongful denial of their Constitutional rights, these citizens were proud of their country and many of the children joined the Boy Scouts and Girl Scouts here.

There are various monuments and markers remembering the 31 killed in action fighting for our country in Europe while their relatives were imprisoned, for the over 1,000 US military veterans from this camp including many interpreters, and for the over 100 inmates who died here, some before their time. While many were later reinterred elsewhere, a few graves remain in a Japanese styled cemetery, along with a memorial stone and a photo of the original epitaph, written in Japanese.

Interestingly, Colorado citizens of Japanese ancestry were not incarcerated, because the governor, Ralph Carr, correctly believed the program to be unconstitutional, arguing that once a majority violates the rights of a minority, “then you as a minority may be subjected to the same ill-will of the majority tomorrow.” His principles likely cost him his next election. (If the nearby town of Chivington wants to replace its shameful name, they could rename their town Carr).

But the Japanese [Americans] are protected by the same Constitution that protects us.
An American citizen of Japanese descent has the same rights as any other citizen. …
If you harm them, you must first harm me.
I was brought up in small towns where I knew the shame and dishonor of race hatred.
I grew to despise it, because it threatened the happiness of you and you and you.

Colorado Governor Ralph Carr to a hostile audience in 1942

Manzanar National Historic Site

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Manzanar was the first of ten internment camps incarceration sites for Japanese-American citizens (and some non-citizens) to be recognized as a park unit in 1992, symbolizing the whole program fiasco. Minidoka was enacted in 2001, Tule Lake in 2008 and Amache in 2022.

Unconstitutional incarceration, while a Federal program ordered by FDR, varied by state: Hawaii incarcerated few and west coast states many. Rules regarding how much Japanese ancestry got a US citizen locked up without trial also varied by state. No other group was incarcerated en masse. Popular sentiment (racism) generally backed incarcerating Japanese-American US citizens during the war.

George Takei spent his “boyhood behind the barbed wire fences” in Arkansas. He remembers that after his family was imprisoned, his neighbors “came to our house and took everything”. He recounts how after Pearl Harbor, many young Japanese Americans tried to enlist, were refused and were incarcerated. His experiences were common, and in many cases homes and all belongings were permanently lost during internment.

It was an egregious violation of the American Constitution.
We were innocent American citizens, and we were imprisoned
simply because we happened to look like the people who bombed Pearl Harbor.
It shows us just how fragile our Constitution is.

George Takei

Many of the citizens imprisoned here were teachers, doctors, skilled craftsmen, farmers, community leaders and otherwise productive members of our society. (One was a Mexican-Irish-American who got locked up here in solidarity). They sued for their rights and in 1944, the Supreme Court declared that a loyal citizen could not be detained under the Constitution. The executive order was rescinded the next day.

In this blog, I try to encourage people to look at mistakes in history and imagine a better course of action, because if we can’t fix our mistakes, then we have no hope of solving the climate crisis. It’s morally wrong to visit this site and think, “well, I suppose there was no other way”. Some have argued that it was for the protection of Japanese Americans or to stop espionage. But there were better ways available at the time to accomplish those objectives.

FDR clearly failed in his oath as President when he did not uphold the Constitution and imprisoned these citizens without cause. He also suffered a failure of imagination. Instead of internment, FDR could have established voluntary Japanese-American citizens councils, led by Japanese Americans to meet regularly among themselves, with civil defense, local law enforcement, and with government representatives to propose ways of supporting their communities and the war effort. The councils could have addressed both safety and spying allegations.

Instead of being locked up, these citizens could have spent the war teaching, working in hospitals or factories, growing food and supporting our war effort. Instead of being an American example of “concentration camps” like those of our enemies, FDR missed his opportunity to stand up for the freedom of these Americans as a positive example of our Constitutional liberties for the world.

Pipestone National Monument

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In some Native American mythology stories, the red pipestone comes from the blood of ancestors killed in floods. Similar to the story of Noah, prayers are heard and a few survive. The pipes send prayers to heaven. So this quarry has special religious and cultural significance, and the pipes are still formed using traditional techniques. There’s a great exhibition inside the visitor center, where native artisans answer questions while working and beautiful pipes are displayed. The film explains the importance of the local plants, including a field of red Smooth Sumac, used in making medicine and blends to smoke or hang in offering ties on sacred cottonwood trees where ceremonies like the Sun Dance are performed. The short circle trail up the creek past the small Lake Hiawatha leads through a beautiful hewn ravine of red pipestone across a footbridge and back around to an exhibit quarry.

Effigy Mounds National Monument

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On the Iowa side of the Mississippi River looking across from the high bluffs toward Wisconsin, there are over 200 hundred mounds, round, linear, bird and bear shaped. They are in clear lines straight out from the river, and they date back roughly 1,000 years, evidence of cultural traditions that continued for hundreds of years. Although these sites typically do not make the connection, there are similar sites along the Mississippi and other rivers at overlapping time periods with evidence of trade between them. Bird symbols in particular are found in both modern and ancient Native American culture. Many similar mounds were flattened and plowed under after the land was stolen.

The hiking here is excellent, with many overlooks, including Fire Point above and Third View which looks upriver. The hillock to the right of the path is one of the mounds, first in a long line into the woods. A pair of hawks soared high above. If you can make it a few miles, your chances of seeing deer and other wildlife improve. Since it is a sacred site, please stay on the trails and do not walk over the mounds.

Cahokia Mounds

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Tens of thousands of Native Americans lived in this city 1,000 years ago, and it was the center of the Mississippian culture that thrived in the valley and as far as Ocmulgee in Georgia. In the distance from atop 100′ high Monks Mound (named for French Trappist Monk settlers), you can see Gateway Arch. This is the largest Native American mound north of Mexico, and it is still an impressive, tiered, geometric structure surrounded by 50 other smaller mounds of different shapes and sizes, for burials and as foundations for public buildings. There’s also an astrological calendar circle with wooden post markers, called “Woodhenge”.

Cahokia is actually both a state park and a UNESCO World Heritage Site but not a national park site. However, it is on the Lewis & Clark National Historic Trail, and Illinois’ Senators have asked President Biden to make it an official national park site. It’s simply too big to ignore, so, I stopped and climbed, even though the visitor center is closed.

Herbert Hoover National Historic Site

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Hoover may have been a Stanford graduate who made his fortune working on foreign mine extraction projects, but he grew up poor in this tiny house in a rural Iowa Quaker village. Note the outhouse in back and his father’s blacksmith shop on the right. His hardworking father died of heart failure and his even harder working mother later died of typhoid and pneumonia. Herbert’s relatives took him and his two siblings in, and he grew up in a school principal uncle’s house in Oregon.

I also visited his Presidential Library & Museum next door, run by the National Archives. They go to great lengths to rehabilitate Hoover’s reputation, since he was widely blamed for the Great Depression. They point to his conservation efforts for example, but neglect to mention that his 5 million acres are not as much as Teddy Roosevelt’s 150 million acres. The museum helped convince me that Hoover was a generous humanitarian who saved many lives in Belgium, Russia and elsewhere by running food aid programs, who was elected with extremely high expectations, and who implemented a variety of positive programs (not just the dam). I genuinely think he was a smart and nice guy.

But, Hoover was an ardent believer in solving social problems with volunteerism and without government intervention. Even though he had warned Coolidge about the dangers of stock speculation, Hoover was all about efficiency, not reform. Hoover had seen massive, desperate social failure all around the world, including being trapped in the foreign enclave during the Boxer Rebellion with his wife (see movie, ’55 Days at Peking’). But he still believed that if government supported business leaders and capitalists, then everything could be solved with goodwill and determination.

He was wrong. FDR crushed him and immediately implemented massive social programs including unemployment payments, government work programs, and Social Security. In retrospect, Hoover should have been able to look at his own family’s struggle with poverty and the tragedies of his parents’ deaths and consider that maybe government intervention would have helped them in their hour of need. Instead, he shared the common views among the ruling elites, that government programs like military protection for foreign business interests in China are good but that government programs like unemployment relief are bad.

Lincoln Home National Historic Site

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It’s not his hat, but the small desk is where Lincoln wrote his early speeches. In the parlor downstairs, he held the funeral service for his son, Edward, and years later was invited to be the Republican nominee for President. In this house, he refined his political views and his arguments against slavery. Lincoln drew from his early childhood and boyhood experiences to become the most powerful advocate for freedom.

“As I would not be a slave, so I would not be a master. This expresses my idea of democracy. Whatever differs from this, to the extent of the difference, is no democracy.”

Abraham Lincoln in 1858

Lincoln understood the fundamental flaw in our country, that the ideal of equality did not apply to all and that Democracy and slavery are absolutely incompatible. He knew that most voters held racist views and did not want war to bring about immediate equality. So he was careful, not always the loudest abolitionist, and he opposed John Brown’s raid. But Lincoln was determined to end slavery, crafted a greater variety of effective, convincing arguments against slavery, introduced legislation and used his arguments in debates against Douglas.

“That is the real issue. That is the issue that will continue in this country when these poor tongues of Judge Douglas and myself shall be silent. It is the eternal struggle between these two principles — right and wrong — throughout the world. They are the two principles that have stood face to face from the beginning of time; and will ever continue to struggle. The one is the common right of humanity and the other the divine right of kings. It is the same principle in whatever shape it develops itself. It is the same spirit that says, “You work and toil and earn bread, and I’ll eat it.” No matter in what shape it comes, whether from the mouth of a king who seeks to bestride the people of his own nation and live by the fruit of their labor, or from one race of men as an apology for enslaving another race, it is the same tyrannical principle.”

Final Lincoln-Douglas debate

Beyond the home tour, I found the neighborhood fascinating. One of the neighbors was a conductor on the Underground Railroad who gave the President-elect his inaugural ride to the depot. One was a Jewish family whose son helped build 5,000 Rosenwald schools to educate African Americans across the south. And one is currently being used as a local office for Senator Dick Durban. Springfield is all about Lincoln, and they have set aside 4 surrounding blocks of period houses, a short walk from the his Presidential Library and Museum. The museum there is modern, multi-media and includes an excellent map visualization of Civil War casualties over time. Explore the neighborhood, stay in an atmospheric B&B and eat at a fine restaurant. I did, at reasonable cost, and learned Springfield is on Route 66.

Lincoln Boyhood National Memorial

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When Lincoln’s father left Abe’s birthplace in search of a new home that wouldn’t be stolen, he took the family here, deep into the forest to make their new home from scratch. The park has a living historical farm (above) with crops, chickens and sheep that does a good job of showing life in the early 1800’s, when Abe lived here from age 7 to 21. Much emphasis is placed on the log cabins, to show Lincoln’s humble roots. The visitor center film explains the loss of his closest family members, mostly buried here. There is a trail with stones commemorating Lincoln’s lifetime milestones.

But for me, it is the initial experience that Lincoln had that defines him. His family had literally arrived at the end of the road, being “the poorest people”, and his father must have said, ‘let’s keep going, we’ll make our own road from here’. And they did. Lincoln became a log splitter in boyhood, because the first step at the end of that road was to chop down trees to make a path.

Yes, he was poor and hard-working. But more importantly, Lincoln was a path-making thinker. Unlike formally educated people who are provided answers and common ways of thinking, Lincoln had precious few educational resources available to him, requiring him to be a self-starting, inventive thinker, to use common sense and observation to extrapolate answers to a broad range of questions he had. His mother, who had taught his father how to read, died, and his step mother brought three children with her and about as many books. Faced with a life of endless labor without security that his father had endured and given him, Lincoln viewed knowledge as his pathway into a bigger and broader world.

One of his formative experiences on an early journey was when he got sued for ferrying folks out to catch passing steamboats. The ferry operator said that he was encroaching on their business without a license. Lincoln, arguing his own case in court, said that he wasn’t carrying people all the way across the river, just halfway. And he won.

Another was when he traveled down the Ohio and Mississippi rivers to Natchez, where he saw slaves auctioned. His family was against slavery, but seeing the cruelty up close made a powerful impression on him. He would spend the rest of his life convincing people to abolish slavery.

Where other people in his time may have been educated to believe that slavery was normal and even justifiable, Lincoln was used to forming his own thoughts. Arguing against those who thought slavery normal, he noted that none of them are willing to volunteer for it themselves. He argued to those who believe that slavery is justified by skin shade, intellect or self-interest, that they should logically become the slaves of anyone lighter in color, smarter or greedier than they are. His arguments persuaded people.

The times were leading to an inevitable bloody conflict to choose slavery or Democracy, and Lincoln would be the one to find the path forward.

Dayton Aviation Heritage National Historical Park

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Sorry for the lengthy post, but here’s a summary for those short on time. Watch the ‘On Great White Wings’ park film online, skip both interpretive centers and spend time at the Carillon Historical Park, where you can see the first practical airplane and other fascinating original Wright Brothers’ artifacts.

The Wright-Dunbar interpretive center is in the Wright Brothers print shop building, shows the park film and has exhibits about the print and bicycle businesses that funded the brothers’ aviation experiments. The poet Dunbar is not related to aviation, but he was an internationally acclaimed African American writer.

The Huffman Prairie interpretive center also shows the film, has exhibits about the Wright Brothers grand tour in Europe and has a nicely landscaped monument, but it’s also not essential.

If you want to walk on the field where the first practical airplane first flew, you need to find gate 16A at H Road on route 444, drive out past the shooting range and park in the woods behind Huffman Prairie Field. (Don’t let the sounds of shotguns spook you, as they’re probably out of range). Do not take Kauffman Avenue or 844 to the Wright-Patterson Air Force Base main gate and parking lot, since they won’t let you in. The brochure map will help, but the other maps were wrong.

As a private partner site included in the enacting legislation, the Carillon Historical Park is extraordinary. The park was funded by a local inventor whose wife liked the bells she heard in Europe, and in addition to holding Wright Brothers artifacts, the park has collections showing the varied inventive history of Dayton, including historic trains, bicycles and cars, historic buildings, exhibits and many helpful people. The museum of local inventions takes you from the cash register and electric starter to the space age. Best of all, the park runs a brewery, Carillon Brewing circa 1850, which uses traditional wooden equipment, old recipes and fire to make beer. If every historical park did that, there would be a million more visitors interested in history. This site is one of my favorites.

Friendship Hill National Historic Site

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The National Road, now US 40, was our first federal highway. Washington started it when he cut a road up to Fort Necessity, and he later bought property there for a tavern. But the surveyor above, Albert Gallatin, is known as the road’s father. He met Washington and suggested a straighter route, and Washington agreed, encouraging the young man to work on it.

Swiss born Gallatin bought 400 acres here on the hill near the Monongahela River and soon became Senator. Gallatin tried to moderate the local Whiskey Rebellion, but Washington still sent in troops. After criticizing Hamilton’s financial plans, Jefferson made him Secretary of the Treasury, where he reduced the national debt and finance the Louisiana Purchase, Lewis & Clark and the National Road. Gallatin and Lafayette were friends and helped bring French pressure to help settle the multi-year War of 1812 at Ghent.

Gallatin’s bucolic country estate, 10 miles of forested trails and well maintained mansion behind the statue is well worth a stop along the historic highway.