All Southeast Sites *

The southeast region has more park units (70) than any other region, and I have visited all the units—*except 6 in US Caribbean territories—including all the affiliates, heritage areas and trails in Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Kentucky, Mississippi, North Carolina, South Carolina and Tennessee. Given the large number of states and parks involved, the summary below is organized by theme.

Natural Areas

All of the National Parks in the southeast preserve natural areas, including the reef area of the Florida Keys from Biscayne to the Dry Tortugas, the lowlands of Congaree and the Everglades, the Great Smoky Mountains, and even underground at Mammoth Cave. Other park units, Canaveral, Cape Hatteras, Cape Lookout, Cumberland Island and the Gulf Islands, protect barrier islands. Big Cypress, Big South Fork, Chattahoochee River, Little River Canyon and Obed River all protect diverse riparian areas.

Pre Civil War

Ocmulgee Mounds, Russell Cave and Timucuan stretch back before history, but Horseshoe Bend covers a tragic event in Native American history. Several sites cover early colonial history, including Castillo de San Marcos, De Soto, and Forts Caroline, Frederica, Matanzas and Raleigh. Cowpens, Guilford Courthouse, Kings Mountain, Moores Creek and Ninety-Six cover the Revolution. Blue Ridge, Cumberland Gap, Lincoln Birthplace, Natchez HistoricParkwayTrace, and Pinckney, trace the path of history in the southeast, culminating in the war to abolish slavery.

Civil War and beyond

Andersonville, Brices Cross Roads, Camp Nelson, Chattanooga, Forts Donelson, Pulaski and Sumter, Kennesaw Mountain, Mill Springs, Shiloh, Stones River, Tupelo and Vicksburg are Civil War sites. Johnson, Reconstruction, and Tuskegee Institute cover post war struggles. Carter, Sandburg & Wright Brothers are historic highlights. Birmingham Civil Rights & Freedom Riders, Emmett Till, MLK, Medgar Evers, and Tuskegee Airmen reveal the continuing struggle for Civil Rights.

I learned more traveling in the southeast than any other region, as the area is so rich in history and culture. And the preserved natural areas include some of my favorite park experiences, from underwater and underground, to rivers and shores, and to wildlife experiences in mountain forests. And they can all be explored without traveling in a carbon-burning vehicle.

Moravian Church Settlements—Bethlehem

This is a model of the Gemeinhaus or community house of the Moravians in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania, built between 1741 and 1743. The model is inside the original building, the largest 18th century log structure in continuous use in the US. There are several Moravian buildings from the same period in the historic district in Bethlehem, including housing for men and women, a pump house—the first municipal water system in the US—, a chapel, and a tavern, and all are now recognized as part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site that includes similar Moravian sites in the Denmark, Germany and the UK. Their school buildings are now part of Moravian University here.

The Moravians, a Protestant sect that predated Martin Luther, originally came from Moravia, now the Czech Republic, but their prime benefactor was a Saxon (German), Count von Zinzendorf, so their Bible is in old, low German. They created settlements around the world in order to do Missionary work, and in Pennsylvania, they were famous for their hospitality, music and for their early efforts to learn Native American languages and hold peaceful conferences with both native and colonial leaders.

The Gemeinhaus was multifunctional, especially before other buildings were finished, and one use was as an inn. The knowledgeable docent led me into the large simple chapel on the second floor, a music room with various instruments that predate the famed Bach Choir of Bethlehem, and explained various exhibits with original items, including fine silk needlework, kitchen items and more. While many of the later buildings are still in use by the University and as housing, the core building’s remarkable preservation makes this is an exceptional way to step back over 250 years into colonial, and early American history. But also walk around the fascinating historic town, which includes an 18th century Native American house.

But my favorite building is the Sun Inn tavern from 1758, where George & Martha Washington stayed, Sam Adams drank ale, and an impressively long list of revolutionaries met over many years. It seems likely to me that Ben Franklin would have met members of the Iroquois Confederacy here, along with Moravian translators, inspiring him to incorporate their ideas into his design of our US democracy which balanced the needs of both the states and the country. There’s no better way to experience history than to raise a glass to our founders in one of their favorite drinking establishments!

Florida in Photos

Celebrating completing the Sunshine State!

Big Cypress N Preserve, Biscayne National Park, Canaveral N Seashore, Castillo de San Marcos NM, De Soto N Memorial, Dry Tortugas National Park, Everglades National Park, Fort Caroline N Memorial, Fort Matanzas N Monument, and Timucuan Ecological & Historic Preserve are above. Gulf Islands N Seashore and the Gullah Geechee Cultural Heritage Corridor are partly in Florida, plus there’s the Florida NST.

Apalachicola Biosphere

This remote basin along the Apalachicola River of the Florida panhandle is a UNESCO protected biosphere and, along with Okefenokee in Georgia, is the main production area for Tupelo honey. The Peter Fonda movie Ulee’s Gold is set here, and beekeepers frequently boat around keeping track of their bees. Many of the stumps in the photo are white tupelo gum trees, while others are cypress. Tupelo means ‘swamp tree’ in Muskogee, and Elvis’ hometown of Tupelo Mississippi has black gum trees.

Technically the photo shows the Dead Lakes on the outskirts of the preserve, but a bit past the Chipola River Bridge is the Gaskin Park boat ramp, where you can access the core area. Due to the high density of large reptiles, I decided against kayaking. But the river, swamp, floodplains, estuary, mudflats, forest, seagrass beds and barrier islands here comprise a uniquely diverse, remote, and unpolluted ecosystem, supporting many unusual and endangered species, including more reptiles and amphibians than anywhere else in the country, black bear, manatee, hundreds of species of birds, and a critical nursery for fish and shellfish. ⭐

This post marks the end of my trip to Florida and the Southeast region of the contiguous US. Next Monday I’ll post about a world heritage site in the Mid Atlantic region.

Improve Imaginative Thinking

Rules are the first casualty of imaginative thinking, so let’s first fail to define the indefinable and then delve deeper to extricate our best ideas from social constraints. 

We’ve explored instinctual, rational, and moral thinking, but imaginative thinking is wholly different. Root thinking begins instinctually and drives us to act. Rational thinking is taught in school and is used to succeed. Moral thinking—sorely lacking these days—is desperately needed to improve our decisions. Yet imaginative thinking is the rarest, most valuable, least valued and most misunderstood.

Imagination imagines, wandering and wondering—ideally taking on a life of its own—creatively, destructively iconoclastic, unpredictably novel, exploring and ignoring limits.  Applied imaginative thinking—creative thinking and invention—is how we come up with new ideas; the goals vary, from understanding the truth, to creating a beautiful work of art and to finding a simpler, more elegant solution to a mundane old problem.  But in its purist form, imagination is unburdened by reality: a spark, a thread, a blank slate, a new world or multiverses. Yet since imagination is limitless, it tends to draw ideas from all types of thought, which causes problems right in the beginning.  

Most people use their imagination to imagine what they desire, which is driven by their instinctual needs.  Advanced creative thinking evolved from this type of fantasizing, but when only used in service of instinct, imagination is limited to serve our basic needs and is reduced to being an extension of our primitive nature.  When an animal uses tactics to hunt, that is instinct, not rational thinking.  Similarly, visualizing our urges is instinctive, not imaginative thinking.  Instinctual desires are basic, common, constant, repetitive, and ubiquitous, the most direct path to satisfying a need as opposed to the originality of uniquely creative ideas.

Motive matters. Freeing our imagination from our basic instincts is just as important as learning to think rationally or morally.  Freeing your creative mind in this way allows you to do much more than simply satisfy or stimulate yourself.  Human passions may fuel imagination, but if the goal is only to express those emotions, then that is all you will get.  If the goal is pure imagination, art for art’s sake, or a single idea, then imaginative thinking can be used for any dream. Imaginative thinkers are aware of instincts but are not bound by them. Unconstrained, they may choose to reveal conflicts in the human condition in order that we may see ourselves anew and change. If the goal is to create something novel, a child’s escapist dream can mature and develop into an elaborate new vision for humanity.

Rational thinkers are productive but follow standard procedures, limiting their capacity for change. Rational thinkers judge imaginative thought solely by its productive utility or output value, and they dislike budgeting time or resources on vague concepts or chaotic individuals. They seek to control the production of ideas, defining subcategories of creative thinking, invention and brainstorming to harness imagination to create, invent or solve their priorities, counting the number of bad ideas identified and evaluated, preferably producing at least one quantifiably useful insight per day. So, invention and creativity often become budgeted, programmatic efforts to produce quantifiable results on schedule. There is little that’s creative about a brute force evaluation of a large number of committee-brainstormed suggestions to fit a limited set of concrete criteria. Also, rational people are typically the least qualified for evaluating creative thinking, since they often lack the imagination needed to understand, appreciate or apply a new idea.

Imaginative people who enjoy new ideas for their own sake often struggle to operate within corporations and bureaucratic organizations, especially when they receive no credit for their ideas. Chaotic daydreamers with vague concepts are anathema to their rational bosses, until the day one comes up with a new competitive advantage for the whole firm. Imagination is disruptive to routine, but an idea can add more value in an instant than a division of diligent workers do in a year. Imaginative, out-of-the-box thinking necessitates removal of limits, which contradicts the standard operating procedure of rational business people. So, imaginative employees often need to find a perceptive advocate for their approach, to explain the potential reward of a new idea for a relatively low investment of time and resources, and to demand appropriate credit for a successful result. Visionaries often have to start their own businesses.

Imagination is often amoral and especially dismissive of conventions and customs.  Moral thinkers typically evaluate imaginative thought by its risks and benefits to society, and, as self-appointed guardians of righteous behavior, they often clash with new, unproven ideas. But imaginative thinkers are often seeking good ideas and positive solutions, just in different, unconventional and creative ways. Society develops moral rules which are internalized by people, but even the most well established social rules must be improved through innovation. Otherwise civilizations stagnate and can become oppressive in pursuit of stability, where consistent conformity leads to small-minded dull routine. Think of how a comedian can newly capture a common daily scenario that makes us suddenly realize its absurdity and laugh. One imaginative person can shatter the self-imposed constraints of a civilization, giving it the freedom to grow into a better one.

Our civilization does not make imaginative thinking easy. We ridicule and ostracize people who think different, assign ownership of ideas to corporations that may bury them to protect profits, and we pass laws prohibiting uncomfortable changes that challenge the status quo. In theory, the possibilities of imagination are endless, but in practice, the world places constraints upon us.  At work, creative people may be expected to produce innovations on schedule, within budget, conforming to specifications, using preferred methods, following brand guidelines, in Compliance, after gaining agreement of all stakeholders, with input from senior leadership.  If there are only a few ideas that will fit, then it is not particularly creative to pick one.  Rational thinkers may believe they understand the problem better and may try to impose their solution upon you.  Moral and instinctual thinkers may also believe they know best. 

Imaginative thinkers must both rise above instincts and keep rational and moral controlling forces at bay. Imagination can create something out of nothing, while unimaginative others remain stuck in ruts, plod through 10,000 sequential failures, or miss the point entirely. A good idea requires looking at the problem differently than before, taking a new approach or testing a tenuous new connection. A good idea may appear to come out of the blue suddenly, but usually a good idea is the result of a unique perspective or uncommon thinking.  Imagination uncovers secret shortcuts through inspirational, non-linear leaps, invisible and unknowable to others. Often such thinking requires walking outside, sleep, or focusing on seemingly unrelated ideas. Daydreaming at work is cause for dismissal, but once you come up with a new solution to an intractable problem, everyone follows and claims credit.

We need to reorient our lives, our work and our society to encourage imaginative thinking. Creative thought burns calories, and imagination requires effort and time.  Imaginative thinkers need independence, space to do their thing, and access to whatever fuels their ideas and inspires them, without interference. Realizing a dream may require new media, new technology or shattering a sacrosanct symbol. New ideas need inspiration, including varied viewpoints, diverse experiences and old forgotten ideas.  Ideas yearn to be free, realized, rediscovered, shared, stolen and reimagined. But imaginative people need recognition for the value of their contributions, champions to help bring their ideas to fruition and protection from small-minded, fearful bureaucrats, thieves and corrupt controllers.

But the magic begins when we give ourselves time to dream, so first, imaginative thinking must be a personal priority. I live my best life when I lead with my imagination and let everything else follow.

Dry Tortugas National Park

Fort Jefferson is an impressive 19th century structure, used to police ship traffic between Florida and Cuba. The island was named for the sea turtles that still nest here, and there are many seabirds too. There are lovely views of the courtyard above and all around the small island from the top of the walls. I was pleased to see a goliath grouper near the ferry dock, and despite the poor coral condition, the snorkeling was very good among the old dock pilings near the south beach. Together with the Everglades, Dry Tortugas is a large UNESCO Biosphere. I saw hundreds of fish and birds. This is one of my favorite national parks.

The flight is much more expensive than the ferry, but there are some benefits. I was kicking myself for not reserving ferry tickets enough months in advance, but when I realized that the seaplane only flies a hundred and fifty feet or so over the shallow waters, I decided the short flight was worthwhile for the views. From the air, we saw two shipwrecks, one a navy boat used for target practice and the other a famous treasure hunter’s floating guard shack, plus many sea turtles, some sharks, maybe a stingray, a pod of dolphin, and flying fish scattering over the surface. First time for me to see all that from the air. Also, the flight saved me a lot of time. If you’re just visiting Key West—I took the Conch Tour decades ago—to get to the Dry Tortugas, then you can drive in, catch a 10 am flight, and be on your way, saving two very expensive hotel nights on Key West. Plus, it’s less crowded when you first arrive, they include snorkel gear—definitely snorkel—, and you get the view of the fort below.

Biscayne National Park

A few stilt houses have survived hurricanes and are allowed to remain in this huge marine park just outside Miami. The lighthouse in the background was once part of the Underground Railroad, as boats would risk the reefs to come here at night to pick up escaped slaves and fleeing Native Americans to live in the Bahamas, which ended slavery in 1834. While the Key Biscayne in the background above is a barrier island, the Florida Keys are part of an ancient reef that begins here, includes Key West and runs to the Dry Tortugas.

The best way to see the park is by boat. I took a very small tour from Coconut Grove out to the flats, to snorkel on both ocean and bay sides of Elliot Key, and had lunch on Boca Chica. The reef I remember from the 1980s has been devastated by carbon pollution from fossil fuels—elkhorn & staghorn corals are functionally extinct here now—with widespread coral bleaching and only a fraction of the marine life. But it still has life. I counted dozens of species including a beautiful French angelfish, various colorful parrotfish, spiny urchin and a lobster. From the surface we saw mating loggerheads, a manatee, and many birds, but the vast majority of wildlife is just below the surface. Let me show you what I mean.

Southeast Trails

The southeast includes some of our oldest and most scenic trails, and the Florida NST, Natchez Trace NST and the Selma to Montgomery NHT are unique to the Southeast. Both Appalachian and Natchez Trace scenic trails are individual park units. Here’s a quick summary in case you are interested in exploring the trails in the region.

National Historic Trails

  • Lewis & Clark 1804-1806, runs along northern Kentucky, and they did some fossil hunting for Jefferson at Big Bone Lick.
  • Overmountain Victory celebrates the trail crossed by Patriots in 1780 to turn the war.
  • Selma to Montgomery has several fine exhibits at both ends and at a few stops along the way. Highly recommended.
  • Trail of Tears ~1830 to ~1850, Native Americans from all across the region were forcibly removed on this trail that crosses through most states in the region. There are numerous sites along the trail, including Little River Canyon.

National Scenic Trails

Everglades National Park

The southern end of Florida is home to Everglades National Park, which is also a UNESCO Biosphere and a World Heritage Site. Since 1900, the area has been both protected and threatened, with political battles needed to protect bird plumage, to create the park, and to protect the large, diverse ecosystem here. Marjory Stoneman Douglas wrote a book to explain how the Shark Valley River Slough runs as a “river of grass” through the Everglades. When summer rains fill Lake Okeechobee, a sheet of water overflows the low bank and floods the flat grasslands, revitalizing fish eggs and a whole ecosystem. A cross Florida road called the Tamiami Trail prevented that flow, and a political battle was fought to restore it partially. The fresh water eventually sinks through the limestone, filling the Biscayne Aquifer to provide drinking water for Miami. There are also canals crisscrossing lower Florida, including here, and that’s where these two young alligators were hanging out. Alligator Alcatraz, a temporary migrant detention center, is in the Everglades ecosystem, but it’s not in the national park. Alligator Alcatraz is north of the Tamiami trail in Big Cypress National Preserve.

The park is 1.5 million acres, including the mangrove islands that form the southern end of Florida, before the Keys. The best place to see the mangroves is by boat, either from Everglades City west of Big Cypress or by driving to Flamingo. I took my family to the latter, and we saw a large crocodile near the dock, plus much more wildlife on a quick cruise in the “submerged wilderness” of Florida Bay. Personally, I wouldn’t kayak these waters, but many people do, camping on the Chickees or raised bits of ground where natives camped seasonally and for different purposes for centuries at least. There’s even a paddling waterway to go between Everglades City and Flamingo. Before the highway was built out to Key West, visitors commonly took a similar route by boat.

The work of environmental protection is never done. Burmese pythons entered the park in the 1970s—likely as discarded pets—, and now they’ve wiped out most of the native animals, threatening the Florida panther with extinction. I was disappointed to see the dramatic decline in wildlife evident from the Shark Valley Tower, since I first visited decades ago and even since I visited again with my family not so many years ago. And since last year, the state government is not allowed to mention climate change, global warming or sea level rise, but that obviously won’t do anything to prevent rising sea levels from submerging much of southern Florida, including most of Miami and almost 1/2 the park in the coming decades. Especially if the government refuses to take action, climate science clearly shows that the environment will only continue to worsen more rapidly.